Evaluation and Identification of “Snow-White” Material on Lipstick Surface Affected by Synthetic Wax with Stearic Acid and Cooling Time Variation
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Presented by: Bayu Ahmad Ramdani
Evaluation and Identification of “Snow-White” Material on Lipstick Surface Affected by Synthetic Wax with Stearic Acid and Cooling Time Variation
Habiburrohman, Hafez1; Noviani, Widyanita2; Rosalia, Purwita3; Susanto, Eriwan4; Ramdani, Bayu5*
1-5 Research and Development, Paragon Technology and Innovation, Banten, Indonesia.
*bayu.aramdani@pti-cosmetics.com
Background: Sweating or blooming is one of undesirable phenomena that often occur in lipstick development. Many factors can affect lipstick sweating, from raw material incompatibility issue, to process-related issue such as cooling temperature and time.
In one of our lipstick project, we found a quite severe sweating issue in development stage, where some white thick layer, morphologically seems like snow crystals, appeared and covered the lipstick surface fully. The lipstick contained one new raw material, a synthetic wax (11% (w/w)) to replace natural candelilla wax in the previous formulation with similar concentration. From its raw material breakdown data, it showed that this synthetic wax contains around 10% (w/w) of stearic acid. Based on our historical trial, we found sweating phenomena occurred in lipstick formula containing around 1-3% of stearic acid, with shorter cooling time in molding process.
The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of this synthetic wax to lipstick sweating, then to qualitatively identify the white material morphology on the lipstick surface using digital and scanning electron microscope (SEM); fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) for its molecular fingerprint; and to evaluate the effect of molding cooling time towards sweating phenomena in lipstick.
Methods: Synthetic wax was incorporated into lipstick formula with different concentration: 0%; 0,5%; 1%; 3%; 5%; 7,5%; 11% (w/w). The dosage variation was adjusted to the natural candelilla wax. The prototypes were incubated in the 50ºC oven for 1 month to evaluate the correlation between synthetic wax dosage with sweating severity.
The white crystal on the lipstick surface was swabbed and evaluated under Keyence VHX-7000 Digital Microscope with 1000x magnification and Hitachi SU-3500 Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) with 1000-15000x magnification to determine the crystal morphology. The image result was then compared to synthetic wax and stearic acid raw material’s SEM image to find morphology similarity. The molecular fingerprint of the crystal was determined using fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR).
Lipstick containing 11% (w/w) of synthetic wax was optimized under -4ºC freezer : 3; 6; and 9 minutes cooling time.
Results: Lipstick containing 0% (w/w) of synthetic wax showed no sweating issue, in contrast, severe “Snow-White” phenomena occurred on 11% (w/w) wax concentration formula. Morphologically, white crystal material on lipstick surface has high similarity with stearic acid crystal under both digital and scanning electron microscope with 1000x magnification. FTIR result showed identical spectrum between the white crystal and stearic acid. 3 minutes cooling time molding process showed the most severe sweating issue, compare to 6 and 9 minutes cooling time.
Discussion and Conclusion: Based on the result of this study, the most severe “Snow-White” sweating phenomena on lipstick surface was occurred in formula with higher concentration of synthetic wax that contained stearic acid. The white crystal material on lipstick surface was definitely stearic acid crystal, based on its similarity in morphology under digital and scanning electron microscope, and its molecular fingerprint spectrum by FTIR. Lipstick cooling time in molding process was also a key factor that affect sweating phenomena, longer cooling time will help to reduce the severity of sweating issue.
Keywords: Lipstick; Sweating; White Crystal; Stearic Acid; Synthetic Wax
Habiburrohman, Hafez1; Noviani, Widyanita2; Rosalia, Purwita3; Susanto, Eriwan4; Ramdani, Bayu5*
1-5 Research and Development, Paragon Technology and Innovation, Banten, Indonesia.
*bayu.aramdani@pti-cosmetics.com
Background: Sweating or blooming is one of undesirable phenomena that often occur in lipstick development. Many factors can affect lipstick sweating, from raw material incompatibility issue, to process-related issue such as cooling temperature and time.
In one of our lipstick project, we found a quite severe sweating issue in development stage, where some white thick layer, morphologically seems like snow crystals, appeared and covered the lipstick surface fully. The lipstick contained one new raw material, a synthetic wax (11% (w/w)) to replace natural candelilla wax in the previous formulation with similar concentration. From its raw material breakdown data, it showed that this synthetic wax contains around 10% (w/w) of stearic acid. Based on our historical trial, we found sweating phenomena occurred in lipstick formula containing around 1-3% of stearic acid, with shorter cooling time in molding process.
The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of this synthetic wax to lipstick sweating, then to qualitatively identify the white material morphology on the lipstick surface using digital and scanning electron microscope (SEM); fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) for its molecular fingerprint; and to evaluate the effect of molding cooling time towards sweating phenomena in lipstick.
Methods: Synthetic wax was incorporated into lipstick formula with different concentration: 0%; 0,5%; 1%; 3%; 5%; 7,5%; 11% (w/w). The dosage variation was adjusted to the natural candelilla wax. The prototypes were incubated in the 50ºC oven for 1 month to evaluate the correlation between synthetic wax dosage with sweating severity.
The white crystal on the lipstick surface was swabbed and evaluated under Keyence VHX-7000 Digital Microscope with 1000x magnification and Hitachi SU-3500 Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) with 1000-15000x magnification to determine the crystal morphology. The image result was then compared to synthetic wax and stearic acid raw material’s SEM image to find morphology similarity. The molecular fingerprint of the crystal was determined using fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR).
Lipstick containing 11% (w/w) of synthetic wax was optimized under -4ºC freezer : 3; 6; and 9 minutes cooling time.
Results: Lipstick containing 0% (w/w) of synthetic wax showed no sweating issue, in contrast, severe “Snow-White” phenomena occurred on 11% (w/w) wax concentration formula. Morphologically, white crystal material on lipstick surface has high similarity with stearic acid crystal under both digital and scanning electron microscope with 1000x magnification. FTIR result showed identical spectrum between the white crystal and stearic acid. 3 minutes cooling time molding process showed the most severe sweating issue, compare to 6 and 9 minutes cooling time.
Discussion and Conclusion: Based on the result of this study, the most severe “Snow-White” sweating phenomena on lipstick surface was occurred in formula with higher concentration of synthetic wax that contained stearic acid. The white crystal material on lipstick surface was definitely stearic acid crystal, based on its similarity in morphology under digital and scanning electron microscope, and its molecular fingerprint spectrum by FTIR. Lipstick cooling time in molding process was also a key factor that affect sweating phenomena, longer cooling time will help to reduce the severity of sweating issue.
Keywords: Lipstick; Sweating; White Crystal; Stearic Acid; Synthetic Wax