Cistus ladanifer based hand cream for chilblains
578
Presented by: Rita Palmeira-de-Oliveira
Introduction
Chilblains are caused by inflammation of small blood vessels inflammation that occur in response to repeated exposure to cold temperatures. This condition causes great discomfort and symptoms include itching, red patches, localized swelling and pain. It is prevalent in all age groups, most commonly in young adults and particularly among women. In previous studies we unraveled consumer’s perceptions on chilblains non-pharmacologic approaches and found that commercially available products are considered uncomfortable, leaving an oily residue and interfering with normal daily activities. Most consumers preferred a spray product, with a non-greasy skin feel.
The aim of the study was to develop an innovative product specifically designed towards consumer’s needs and preferences. The product developed should be moisturizing, provide a refreshing feeling after application and do not leave an oily sensation on the skin.
Materials and Methods
The prototypes were developed based on an eco-friendly approach from ingredient selection, through production methods and packaging selection. The key ingredient was defined as Cistus ladanifer, a shrub species endemic to the western Mediterranean, known for conditioning, anti-inflammatory and antisseptic properties. Particularly, an hydrolate was selected for this purpose based on its traditional use for wound healing. The extract was acquired to local producers in portugal to further support a low environmental impact strategy for the product. Texture, skin-feel and appearance were defined as critical parameters for the product. The selected prototype was further tested through Challenge Test (ISO 11930:209) and submitted to stress conditions (4 weeks, alternating 5ºC and 40ºC storage each 24h) for preliminary assessment of stability.
Results and Discussions
Several prototypes were designed to be cold processable and were prepared using moisturizing and restorative ingredients. For packaging, an eco-friendly glass flask with a metallic roll-on applicator was selected. This provides easy spreadability, a refreshing sensation and yields a massage of the skin without the use of hands. Besides the comfort provided by this application, it also adds an enhanced value to the product as it activates microcirculation near the sensitive area. The chosen packaging also has the advantage of reducing the risk of microbiological contamination from application by sparing the use of hands when applying the product.
The selected composition is protected against microbial contamination (criteria A in challenge test) and was stable under stress conditions. Stability for more than 2 months at room temperature (real time stability) was also confirmed for all tested parameters (sensorial properties, pH, viscosity and microbial quality).
Conclusions
The product developed addresses the consumer’s preferences and is unique in the market as it is eco-friendly, uses an autochthonous natural ingredient with key functional properties, has a comfortable and practical application ideal to provide relief and preserve skins’ integrity.
Chilblains are caused by inflammation of small blood vessels inflammation that occur in response to repeated exposure to cold temperatures. This condition causes great discomfort and symptoms include itching, red patches, localized swelling and pain. It is prevalent in all age groups, most commonly in young adults and particularly among women. In previous studies we unraveled consumer’s perceptions on chilblains non-pharmacologic approaches and found that commercially available products are considered uncomfortable, leaving an oily residue and interfering with normal daily activities. Most consumers preferred a spray product, with a non-greasy skin feel.
The aim of the study was to develop an innovative product specifically designed towards consumer’s needs and preferences. The product developed should be moisturizing, provide a refreshing feeling after application and do not leave an oily sensation on the skin.
Materials and Methods
The prototypes were developed based on an eco-friendly approach from ingredient selection, through production methods and packaging selection. The key ingredient was defined as Cistus ladanifer, a shrub species endemic to the western Mediterranean, known for conditioning, anti-inflammatory and antisseptic properties. Particularly, an hydrolate was selected for this purpose based on its traditional use for wound healing. The extract was acquired to local producers in portugal to further support a low environmental impact strategy for the product. Texture, skin-feel and appearance were defined as critical parameters for the product. The selected prototype was further tested through Challenge Test (ISO 11930:209) and submitted to stress conditions (4 weeks, alternating 5ºC and 40ºC storage each 24h) for preliminary assessment of stability.
Results and Discussions
Several prototypes were designed to be cold processable and were prepared using moisturizing and restorative ingredients. For packaging, an eco-friendly glass flask with a metallic roll-on applicator was selected. This provides easy spreadability, a refreshing sensation and yields a massage of the skin without the use of hands. Besides the comfort provided by this application, it also adds an enhanced value to the product as it activates microcirculation near the sensitive area. The chosen packaging also has the advantage of reducing the risk of microbiological contamination from application by sparing the use of hands when applying the product.
The selected composition is protected against microbial contamination (criteria A in challenge test) and was stable under stress conditions. Stability for more than 2 months at room temperature (real time stability) was also confirmed for all tested parameters (sensorial properties, pH, viscosity and microbial quality).
Conclusions
The product developed addresses the consumer’s preferences and is unique in the market as it is eco-friendly, uses an autochthonous natural ingredient with key functional properties, has a comfortable and practical application ideal to provide relief and preserve skins’ integrity.