Switch color ingredient: an amazing way to change static make-up
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Presented by: Claudio Pirovano
Introduction
Make-up represents a way to answer new needs and adapting to the new communication channels. The concept of make-up has to embody the evolution of our lives, fitting in a fluid way between contrasting scenarios and following dynamically the rapid changes of beauty trends.
Playing in a creative and sophisticated way with color finishes and the other functional ingredients enables the creation a kaleidoscope in which anyone can found the right make-up with the right texture for the day mood.
This work will show an answer to new customer needs, with the possibility to break staticity to color cosmetics by taking advantage of material science and photochromism. A unique photochromic ingredient was designed and developed, opening the way to the obtainment of amazing dynamic cosmetic products.
The resulting photochromic products, able to modify their color in response to sunlight radiation, can be conceived both to amaze and surprise with an impressive color change and to convey an extremely natural effect, darkening outdoors under the direct sun rays where their appearance on the skin is unnaturally white.
Method
A photochromic cosmetic raw material was synthesized, inserting in the polymeric backbone of a cosmetic oil traditional photochromic molecules like spiropyrans and spirooxazines [1]. A siliconic cosmetic emollient was selected and functionalized with an ad hoc modified photochromic molecule via a transesterification reaction.
The new photochromic oil can change the colour of a cosmetic formulation under natural sunlight, allowing the adaptation of the makeup to indoor and outdoor situations.
The compatibility of the new raw material (INCI name: Polysilicone-37) with common oils and powders was studied in order to assess the potentiality of the color switch and to find the right combination with other ingredients in order to enhance the photochromic effect in a formula.
Results
The photochromic oil was successfully synthesized combining a conventional cosmetic silicone emollient with a tailor-made photochromic molecule. The material was characterized in terms of physico-chemical properties (NMR, FTIR, GPC), focussing on the switching properties. The reversible switch occurs when the material is irradiated by sunlight from an almost colorless to a strongly colored (blue) phase.
The photochromic functionalization does not affect the original sensorial properties of the silicon emollient and the optimized concentration of the oil in formula and the appropriate combinations with the other raw materials were individuated.
An anhydrous lip fluid, a face powder and an eyeshadow formulated with the switch color ingredient as the main character were declined in several amazing shifting shades.
Discussion and conclusion
A new photochromic oil is born from the conception of a material able to take the make-up towards the trends of the next future. Functionality and safety make the oil an actual cosmetic ingredient, while the ability to change color with UV makes it unique and dynamic, distinctive from the usual static cosmetic raw materials. Very catchy cosmetic prototypes can be obtained (an anhydrous lip fluid, a face powder and an eyeshadow), showing the transition between two different colors. The colors can be well balanced by the intelligent combination with other cosmetic colorants and the transition can occur for an almost infinite number of times. The shift of shades can be both well visible on the skin or just a fine and sophisticated color tune, depending on the desired effect and the concentration of the oil in formula. In every case, the make-up breaks its normal staticity and becomes fluid and kaleidoscopic.
[1] Galotto-Galotto, N., Pirovano, C., Valsesia, P., Beverina, L., Saligari, F., Bettinelli, S., Depta, G., Transparent colored cosmetic ingredient, capable of automatically changing color when irradiated by ultraviolet light, World Intellectual Property Organization, WO2021165207 A1 2021-08-26
Make-up represents a way to answer new needs and adapting to the new communication channels. The concept of make-up has to embody the evolution of our lives, fitting in a fluid way between contrasting scenarios and following dynamically the rapid changes of beauty trends.
Playing in a creative and sophisticated way with color finishes and the other functional ingredients enables the creation a kaleidoscope in which anyone can found the right make-up with the right texture for the day mood.
This work will show an answer to new customer needs, with the possibility to break staticity to color cosmetics by taking advantage of material science and photochromism. A unique photochromic ingredient was designed and developed, opening the way to the obtainment of amazing dynamic cosmetic products.
The resulting photochromic products, able to modify their color in response to sunlight radiation, can be conceived both to amaze and surprise with an impressive color change and to convey an extremely natural effect, darkening outdoors under the direct sun rays where their appearance on the skin is unnaturally white.
Method
A photochromic cosmetic raw material was synthesized, inserting in the polymeric backbone of a cosmetic oil traditional photochromic molecules like spiropyrans and spirooxazines [1]. A siliconic cosmetic emollient was selected and functionalized with an ad hoc modified photochromic molecule via a transesterification reaction.
The new photochromic oil can change the colour of a cosmetic formulation under natural sunlight, allowing the adaptation of the makeup to indoor and outdoor situations.
The compatibility of the new raw material (INCI name: Polysilicone-37) with common oils and powders was studied in order to assess the potentiality of the color switch and to find the right combination with other ingredients in order to enhance the photochromic effect in a formula.
Results
The photochromic oil was successfully synthesized combining a conventional cosmetic silicone emollient with a tailor-made photochromic molecule. The material was characterized in terms of physico-chemical properties (NMR, FTIR, GPC), focussing on the switching properties. The reversible switch occurs when the material is irradiated by sunlight from an almost colorless to a strongly colored (blue) phase.
The photochromic functionalization does not affect the original sensorial properties of the silicon emollient and the optimized concentration of the oil in formula and the appropriate combinations with the other raw materials were individuated.
An anhydrous lip fluid, a face powder and an eyeshadow formulated with the switch color ingredient as the main character were declined in several amazing shifting shades.
Discussion and conclusion
A new photochromic oil is born from the conception of a material able to take the make-up towards the trends of the next future. Functionality and safety make the oil an actual cosmetic ingredient, while the ability to change color with UV makes it unique and dynamic, distinctive from the usual static cosmetic raw materials. Very catchy cosmetic prototypes can be obtained (an anhydrous lip fluid, a face powder and an eyeshadow), showing the transition between two different colors. The colors can be well balanced by the intelligent combination with other cosmetic colorants and the transition can occur for an almost infinite number of times. The shift of shades can be both well visible on the skin or just a fine and sophisticated color tune, depending on the desired effect and the concentration of the oil in formula. In every case, the make-up breaks its normal staticity and becomes fluid and kaleidoscopic.
[1] Galotto-Galotto, N., Pirovano, C., Valsesia, P., Beverina, L., Saligari, F., Bettinelli, S., Depta, G., Transparent colored cosmetic ingredient, capable of automatically changing color when irradiated by ultraviolet light, World Intellectual Property Organization, WO2021165207 A1 2021-08-26