15:50 - 17:00
Thu-Park Suites-P
Park Suites
Poster Session
Clinically Visible Improvements of Photodamaged Skin with Topical Micro-Encapsulated Retinol
338
Presented by: Shiva Farabi
Shiva Farabi
Ultraceuticals, Gladesville
Retinol, the pure form of Vitamin A, induces the skin's natural production of GAGs (Glycosaminoglycans) within the epidermal layer of the skin and, therefore, plumps and softens the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin's surface. Additionally, Retinol increases cell turnover and exfoliation, making the skin's surface appear smoother and more refined.

Although Retinol is a superstar ingredient for the skin, it is challenging to stabilise to maintain potency until usage. This paper will focus on finding the best solution to enhance the stability, delivery and efficacy of Retinol in an emulsion base and presents the clinical efficacy of Retinol encapsulations.

Adopting microparticle technology, we encapsulated pure Vitamin A (Retinol) into a soft wax for effective stabilisation and delivery of Retinol to the skin. The new technology was then compared with several other encapsulation technologies in terms of Retinol stability and efficacy.
We also compared the compatibility of the encapsulation technologies and their stability and Retinol delivery in an emulsion base. The soft wax technology was modified to increase the compatibility with the emulsion base.
The delivery of Retinol to the skin via different encapsulation methods, which can directly impact the clinical results of the product, was also investigated, using UV imaging to measure the Retinol which the skin has absorbed.

Eighty-five panellists with signs of photoaging applied the new retinol formulation, and we analysed the product's efficacy to deliver Retinol to the skin. Digital photography with a Canfield clinical camera system and subjective evaluation of wrinkling, pigmentation and firmness were performed prior to the study and at weeks 4, 8, and 12.
The significant improvement resulting from applying the formula was observed with digital photography and reported by the self-assessment of panellists. Subjects reported an increase in the firmness of the skin, and there was a noticeable decrease of the depth of fine and deep wrinkles and improvement of pigmentation and texture.

As effective as Retinol can be, it can also be harsh for some skins and cause short-term irritation. Therefore, the adverse reactions during the clinical trial were closely monitored, and the formula was then modified to reduce the irritation incidents. We have included some powerful soothing ingredients and introduced a stepped strength approach to achieve this.