15:50 - 17:00
Thu-Park Suites-P
Park Suites
Poster Session
A cosmetic ingredient able to repair the skin through skin melatonin pathway and sleep quality improvement
138
Presented by: Joan Attia
Romain Duroux 1, Anshul Jain 2, Matthias Tabert 2, Joan Attia 1
1 IFF - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Toulouse
2 IFF, Union Beach
Introduction: Sleep is one of the most important elements to health. Overnight, skin goes into repair and restore mode after daily stress, where melatonin plays a key role. Toxins are removed, cellular repair is increased as well as growth hormones production to improve skin quality during that period. In the current study, we investigated the impact of an active ingredient, a natural essential oil, on both sleep quality, using in-context biometric measures and skin regeneration, through an ex-vivo study.

Methods: To investigate the sleep, a cohort of healthy males and females (n=32; 18-60 years) who self-reported mild sleep disturbances caused by lifestyle factors, but no diagnosis of a clinical sleep disorder, was recruited. Participants slept with the active or a placebo face cream for 5 consecutive nights, with 2 washout nights between the 2 conditions. For all nights except washout nights, participants were required to objectively measure their sleep using SleepScore Max, a non-contact monitoring device that uses respiratory signal and motion sensing to detect sleep. Moreover, a genomic study on an ex-vivo skin model was conducted with this ingredient to observe its skin regenerative effects after a stress induction (UV-irradiation). 25 genes associated with skin repairing and melatonin pathway were evaluated and their modulation were confirmed by immunofluorescence.

Results: The in-context sleep studies revealed that the up-cycling essential oil significantly improved the total sleep duration by nearly 10 minutes (p<0.05) as compared to the placebo, which can primarily be attributed to a significant increase in deep sleep duration (5 minutes, p<0.05). On skin, the ex-vivo study revealed also its capacity to decrease inflammatory markers (IL6, IL17) and DNA damage marker (OGG1) while increasing antioxidant enzymes (CAT, GPX1) and collagen after skin aggression. Interestingly, this product also modulated melatonin-associated genes (ASMTL, SLC15A1 or RORα).

Discussion and Conclusion: The current findings demonstrate that our selected essential oil improves overall sleep quality by increasing the sleep duration, especially deep sleep stage. Same product shows its capacity to regenerate the skin, a benefit also occuring during deep sleep, potentially by acting on the melatonin pathway. Therefore, we developed an active ingredient to favorize skin regeneration process using a dual approach that acts on both sleep and skin improvement.