Novel nanocarriers with unique ginsenoside "shell" for regulating circadian rhythm skin care: Ginseng Loves Your Skin Day and Night
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Presented by: Dongcui Li
Introduction:
Ginsenosides are the main functional components of ginseng extracts. Extensive studies have confirmed that many types of ginsenosides have advanced effects on skin care. However, the existing ginsenosides research has not considered the different needs of skin in daytime and nighttime which is regulated by circadian rhythm. During the day, the main task is to defend against the stimulation caused by external UV and pollutants, so as to remove reactive oxygen species (ROS) in time; and at night, skin needs a strong repairing mechanism to promote the proliferation and repair of cells, to regulate the melatonin synthesis, and to restore the skin circadian rhythm. Ginsenosides are mainly divided into two categories: protopanaxadiol-type (PPD) and protopanaxatriol-type (PPT). They have completely different pharmacological effects and cosmetic efficacy, so they must be separated and enriched for use. This study reports the application of PPD and PPT ginsenosides in daytime and nighttime skin care, respectively, to synergistically regulate the skin circadian rhythm and more accurately meet the skin needs. The specially transformed PPD and PPT ginsenosides used in this study not only have clear constituent structures, but also have better bioactivities. Furthermore, these transformed PPD and PPT ginsenosides are amphiphilic molecules, which are natural compounds for replacing the chemically synthesized encapsulation materials such as cholesterol. It can be used as the “shell” layer of nanocarriers (micelles, liposomes, nanoparticles) to stably encapsulate and release oil-soluble and water-soluble active substances, achieving excellent skin care effects, reducing the irritation, improving transdermal permeation efficiency and bioactivities.
Methods:
Ginsenosides nanocarriers preparation:
PPT and PPD ginsenosides are consistently extracted and prepared using in-house methods. The ginsenosides and benchmark cholesterol nanocarriers are prepared using flash nanoprecipitation method. All nanocarriers are well characterized prior to use.
Ginsenosides vs. ordinary cholesterol nanocarrier: The Franz diffusion cell device using rat skin in vitro is used for measuring transdermal permeation of model active encapsulated by ginsenosides and by cholesterol nanocarrier. Various in-vitro cell models have been established to elucidate the advantages of ginsenosides nanocarriers versus traditional cholesterol stabilized nanocarriers in terms of active efficacy.
Ginsenosides nanocarriers circadian rhythm skin care: Various in-vitro cell models including keratinocytes, melanocytes, and dermal fibroblasts have been established to demonstrate the efficacy of PPD ginsenosides nanocarriers in day skin care and PPT ginsenosides nanocarriers in night skin care, respectively. The evaluation spanning anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, skin barrier protection and anti-aging effects are carefully carried out. The melatonin related proteins AANAT and ASMT which further relates to many circadian rhythm clock genes are measured to demonstrate the uniqueness PPD and PPT combination. The skin care performance of PPD serum for day and PPT serum for night skin care are evaluated by an in-vivo study (N=8) for 28 consecutive days. All subjects were female aged between 45~55. VISIA-CR and PRIMOS-CR are used to collect the wrinkle images of the subject's product application side and the control side, respectively; CL400, GL200 and elasticity test probes are used to detect the ITA° value, gloss and skin elasticity R2 and F4 values.
Results:
The ginsenosides nanocarriers show significant advantages over cholesterol nanocarriers for transdermal permeation efficiency and bioactivities enhancement of encapsulated model actives.
In vitro cell models confirm that PPD ginsenosides nanocarriers match the day skin care requirements (UV protection, ROS clearance, melanin reduction) and the PPT ginsenosides nanocarriers is perfect for night skin care (FLG/COL/SOD production, MMP/inflammatory reduction). AANAT and ASMT are two proteases involved in the synthesis of melatonin, which has a feedback regulation on clock genes (CLOCK, BMAL1, PER, CRY). The addition of PPD and PPT ginsenosides nanocarriers can significantly promote the expression of ASMT/AANAT, thereby promoting the production of melatonin. In vivo study shows that after using PPD daytime serum and PPT night serum, the subject's eye wrinkle area was improved by 12.4%, skin elasticity was improved by 14%, the skin firmness was improved by 10.4%, skin color (ITA° value) was improved by 7.8% and skin radiance improved by 6.2%.
Discussion and Conclusion:
We report a novel nanocarriers with unique ginsenoside "shell" for regulating circadian rhythm skin care: PPD ginsenoside nanocarriers for daytime skin care and PPT ginsenoside nanocarriers for night skin care. This study provides an interesting pathway of ginsenosides for advanced skin care applications.
Ginsenosides are the main functional components of ginseng extracts. Extensive studies have confirmed that many types of ginsenosides have advanced effects on skin care. However, the existing ginsenosides research has not considered the different needs of skin in daytime and nighttime which is regulated by circadian rhythm. During the day, the main task is to defend against the stimulation caused by external UV and pollutants, so as to remove reactive oxygen species (ROS) in time; and at night, skin needs a strong repairing mechanism to promote the proliferation and repair of cells, to regulate the melatonin synthesis, and to restore the skin circadian rhythm. Ginsenosides are mainly divided into two categories: protopanaxadiol-type (PPD) and protopanaxatriol-type (PPT). They have completely different pharmacological effects and cosmetic efficacy, so they must be separated and enriched for use. This study reports the application of PPD and PPT ginsenosides in daytime and nighttime skin care, respectively, to synergistically regulate the skin circadian rhythm and more accurately meet the skin needs. The specially transformed PPD and PPT ginsenosides used in this study not only have clear constituent structures, but also have better bioactivities. Furthermore, these transformed PPD and PPT ginsenosides are amphiphilic molecules, which are natural compounds for replacing the chemically synthesized encapsulation materials such as cholesterol. It can be used as the “shell” layer of nanocarriers (micelles, liposomes, nanoparticles) to stably encapsulate and release oil-soluble and water-soluble active substances, achieving excellent skin care effects, reducing the irritation, improving transdermal permeation efficiency and bioactivities.
Methods:
Ginsenosides nanocarriers preparation:
PPT and PPD ginsenosides are consistently extracted and prepared using in-house methods. The ginsenosides and benchmark cholesterol nanocarriers are prepared using flash nanoprecipitation method. All nanocarriers are well characterized prior to use.
Ginsenosides vs. ordinary cholesterol nanocarrier: The Franz diffusion cell device using rat skin in vitro is used for measuring transdermal permeation of model active encapsulated by ginsenosides and by cholesterol nanocarrier. Various in-vitro cell models have been established to elucidate the advantages of ginsenosides nanocarriers versus traditional cholesterol stabilized nanocarriers in terms of active efficacy.
Ginsenosides nanocarriers circadian rhythm skin care: Various in-vitro cell models including keratinocytes, melanocytes, and dermal fibroblasts have been established to demonstrate the efficacy of PPD ginsenosides nanocarriers in day skin care and PPT ginsenosides nanocarriers in night skin care, respectively. The evaluation spanning anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, skin barrier protection and anti-aging effects are carefully carried out. The melatonin related proteins AANAT and ASMT which further relates to many circadian rhythm clock genes are measured to demonstrate the uniqueness PPD and PPT combination. The skin care performance of PPD serum for day and PPT serum for night skin care are evaluated by an in-vivo study (N=8) for 28 consecutive days. All subjects were female aged between 45~55. VISIA-CR and PRIMOS-CR are used to collect the wrinkle images of the subject's product application side and the control side, respectively; CL400, GL200 and elasticity test probes are used to detect the ITA° value, gloss and skin elasticity R2 and F4 values.
Results:
The ginsenosides nanocarriers show significant advantages over cholesterol nanocarriers for transdermal permeation efficiency and bioactivities enhancement of encapsulated model actives.
In vitro cell models confirm that PPD ginsenosides nanocarriers match the day skin care requirements (UV protection, ROS clearance, melanin reduction) and the PPT ginsenosides nanocarriers is perfect for night skin care (FLG/COL/SOD production, MMP/inflammatory reduction). AANAT and ASMT are two proteases involved in the synthesis of melatonin, which has a feedback regulation on clock genes (CLOCK, BMAL1, PER, CRY). The addition of PPD and PPT ginsenosides nanocarriers can significantly promote the expression of ASMT/AANAT, thereby promoting the production of melatonin. In vivo study shows that after using PPD daytime serum and PPT night serum, the subject's eye wrinkle area was improved by 12.4%, skin elasticity was improved by 14%, the skin firmness was improved by 10.4%, skin color (ITA° value) was improved by 7.8% and skin radiance improved by 6.2%.
Discussion and Conclusion:
We report a novel nanocarriers with unique ginsenoside "shell" for regulating circadian rhythm skin care: PPD ginsenoside nanocarriers for daytime skin care and PPT ginsenoside nanocarriers for night skin care. This study provides an interesting pathway of ginsenosides for advanced skin care applications.