12:40 - 14:00
Thu-Park Suites-M
Park Suites
Poster Session
Nano-capsules of naturally occurring phenylpropanoids and an amphiphilic vitamin C derivative provide synergistic protection against UVA irradiation-induced skin damage and collagen/ elastin fibre reconstruction.
415
Presented by: MASAYOSHI HISAMA
MASAYOSHI HISAMA, TOMOMI TOGO, SANAE MATSUDA, TSUYOSHI YAMAGUCHI, Takuro Ueda
TOYO BEAUTY CO. LTD., Osaka-shi
INTRODUCTION
Previously, we have been reported that we developed a nano-capsule (NC-CS) encapsulated the complex (CSs) of Coffea Robusta seed extract and Caffea Arabica (Coffee) seed extract, which contain naturally occurring phenylpropanoids such as caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid, with polyglyceryl fatty derivative. NC-CS prevented UVA irradiation-induced decreased levels of collagen synthesis and increased level of MMP-1 production. Furthermore, caffeic acid and its analogs suppressed the decreases of the mRNA expression of microfibril-related genes exposed to UVA irradiation.
We also found that disodium isostearyl 2-O-L-ascorbyl phosphate (VCP-IS-2Na), which is an amphiphilic vitamin C derivative, enhanced the reconstruction of collagen and elastic fibers by suppressing the increase of the intracellular ROS.
We focused on the potential for synergistic effect of CSs and VCP-IS-2Na in on collagen synthesis, MMP-1 activity, mRNA expression of microfibril-relating genes in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) under UVA irradiation. However, it is hard to show the effects of these compounds in sebaceous glands since it cannot penetrate through the sebum barrier. Nanoencapsulation technology is an effective method of minimizing these problems. Furthermore, we developed a novel nano-capsule (NC-CSVC) encapsulated of CSs with polyglyceryl fatty derivative and VCP-IS-2Na and evaluated whether NC-CSVC enhanced the reconstructive effect.

METHODS
We evaluated the amount of collagen synthesis and pro-MMP-1 production on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) induced by 30 J/cm2 UVA irradiation using ELISA assay system. We also evaluated the potential of the downregulation of mRNA expression of microfibril-relating genes of Fibrillin-1, MFAP-4, EMILIN-1, and LTBP-4 induced by 30 J/cm2 UVA irradiation in NHDFs using a Thermal Cycler Dice® Real Time System TP800 (TaKaRa Bio Inc.).
Encapsulated components were mixed with butylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, behenyl alcohol and squalane, and then polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristrate, glycerin, and water were added to the solution (CS Complex). CS complex (CP-CS) was used with thin-film spin system high-speed mixer and so made to sharp distribution of nanometer-sized particles, Nano-capsule CS (NC-CS). CP-CSVC and NC-CSVC were dispensed by adding VCP-IS-2Na to the above manufacturing method.

RESULTS
To investigate the effects of CSs and VCP-IS-2Na on the decrease on collagen synthesis and the increase on pro-MMP-1 production exposed to UVA irradiation, NHDFs were treated with CSs and/or VCP-IS-2Na. The decrease of collagen production and the increase on pro-MMP-1 production under UVA irradiation was suppressed by the addition of each of CSs and VCP-IS-2Na with the suppressive rates of 16% and 30%, and 31% and 56%, respectively. These suppressive effects were enhanced by combining the two agents. The suppressive rate of decrease of collagen production and the increase on pro-MMP-1 production were the highest when combining CSs and VCP-IS-2Na, reaching up to 62% and 86%.
CSs and VCP-IS-2Na also suppressed the decreases of the mRNA expression of microfibril-related genes, Fibrillin-1, MFAP-4, EMILIN-1, and LTBP-4, exposed to UVA irradiation. In the case of the combination of CSs and VCP-IS-2Na, the expression of Fibrillin-1 and EMILIN-1 was synergistically suppressed compared to each treatment. When CSs and VCP-IS-2Na were used in combination, suppressive effect was the higher than summation of each effect by 1.5 times and times in both Fibrillin-1 and EMILIN-1.
NC-CSVC suppressed the decrease in collagen and excess production of MMP-1 activity stronger than CP-CSVC and NC-CS. NC-CSVC suppressed the downregulation of mRNA expression of microfibril-related genes at UVA irradiation stronger than CP-CSVC and NC-CS.

CONCLUSION
The synergistic effects of CSs and VCP-IS-2Na were clarified on collagen synthesis, MMP-1 activity, mRNA expression of microfibril-relating genes on NHDFs under UVA irradiation. The combination of CSs and VCP-IS-2Na efficiently suppressed the reconstruction of elastic fibers on UVA irradiation due to suppressing effect of microfibril-related gene expression. In particular, the decrease of expression of Fibrillin-1 and EMILIN-1 was synergistically suppressed by the combination under UVA irradiation.
NC-CSVC prevented UVA irradiation-induced increased level of pro-MMP-1 production and decreased level of collagen synthesis stronger than NC-CS or CP-CSVC. Furthermore, NC-CSVC suppressed the decreases of the mRNA expression of microfibril-related genes exposed to UVA irradiation stronger than NC-CS or CP-CSVC.
These results suggest that combination of CSs and VCP-IS-2Na, and NC-CSVC may be a novel effective anti-aging agents for the approach to progress the reconstruction of collagen and elastic fibers for skin care cosmetics.