Natural regulation of skin hydration, a biological model to improve cosmetics efficiency and sustainability through biomimicry
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Presented by: Carine JACQUES
Background: We have developed an innovative cream and balm base formulations that were designed to reduce their environmental impact, while improving their efficiency by mimicking two levers of the Stratum Corneum (SC) hydration regulation process: to increase the water residence and transit time within the SC and decrease water loss.
Objectives: To characterize cream and balm ability to imitate the natural SC hydration regulation process while reducing their environmental impact and evaluate their benefit on skin hydration in a clinical trial.
Methods: A dynamic functional analysis of SC’s various components was used to improve biocompatibility while identifying natural hydration regulation mechanisms. Hydration regulation mechanisms were partly transferred into a bioinspired cream and balm. Mass Spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare the ingredients of the formulations with SC components, and to detect their distribution in the skin. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyze the formulations’ impact on the organization of the SC lipids. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate tolerance of the formulations . Impact studies were performed to discuss their impact on the environment.
Results: The dynamic functional analysis and abstraction of SC’s various components and natural hydration regulation mechanisms allowed the design of a product with a minimal formulation. The MSI demonstrated the product ability to successfully penetrate the SC and reach expected compartments. The SEM results showed the formulations ability to increase the relative proportion of orthorhombic crystalized lipids, characteristic of one lever of the SC hydration regulation process by increasing barrier function of the SC.
In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and “very good hydration”. Formulation decrease TEWL up to 6hours and lipid index was increased after treatment with the formulations.
In vitro and in vivo studies showed a reinforcement of the barrier function that help to reduce water loss and bring natural moisturizers into the skin to increase hydration. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance.
Conclusions: The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were designed to imitate SC hydration regulation process, more specifically to increase the water residence and transit time within the SC and decrease water exit. Results show a successful intake of the various ingredients, leading to an increase in the SC hydration and a reinforced skin barrier. In addition to their efficiency, the bioinspiration process used to design these products allowed the reduction of their impact on the environment, consistent with the definition of Biomimicry as established by the ISO norm TC255/18458.
Objectives: To characterize cream and balm ability to imitate the natural SC hydration regulation process while reducing their environmental impact and evaluate their benefit on skin hydration in a clinical trial.
Methods: A dynamic functional analysis of SC’s various components was used to improve biocompatibility while identifying natural hydration regulation mechanisms. Hydration regulation mechanisms were partly transferred into a bioinspired cream and balm. Mass Spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare the ingredients of the formulations with SC components, and to detect their distribution in the skin. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyze the formulations’ impact on the organization of the SC lipids. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate tolerance of the formulations . Impact studies were performed to discuss their impact on the environment.
Results: The dynamic functional analysis and abstraction of SC’s various components and natural hydration regulation mechanisms allowed the design of a product with a minimal formulation. The MSI demonstrated the product ability to successfully penetrate the SC and reach expected compartments. The SEM results showed the formulations ability to increase the relative proportion of orthorhombic crystalized lipids, characteristic of one lever of the SC hydration regulation process by increasing barrier function of the SC.
In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and “very good hydration”. Formulation decrease TEWL up to 6hours and lipid index was increased after treatment with the formulations.
In vitro and in vivo studies showed a reinforcement of the barrier function that help to reduce water loss and bring natural moisturizers into the skin to increase hydration. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance.
Conclusions: The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were designed to imitate SC hydration regulation process, more specifically to increase the water residence and transit time within the SC and decrease water exit. Results show a successful intake of the various ingredients, leading to an increase in the SC hydration and a reinforced skin barrier. In addition to their efficiency, the bioinspiration process used to design these products allowed the reduction of their impact on the environment, consistent with the definition of Biomimicry as established by the ISO norm TC255/18458.