Development of novel cosmetic formulation using spherical cellulose beads, “feeling like using silicone elastomer beads”
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Presented by: Maki Kitanouma
1. Introduction
Microplastic beads have become a major social problem in the environment, especially in marine. There are a movement to prohibit to formulate microplastic beads in all cosmetic appications. Therefore, the development of cosmetic formulations without microplastic beads is inevitable.
Spherical cellulose beads will be the one of the best alternative candidate of microplastics beads, since it is the degradable product in the nature (under the regulation of OECD 301F and ASTM D6691 for the biodegradability in marine).
In recent year, silicone elastomer beads have been widely used in cosmetics application, powder and liquid foundations. This product can give very good moist and smooth feeling in application. However, this product, silicone elastomer beads, is the microplastics, so that it is inevitable to find the alternative product. Although spherical cellulose beads have almost same shape as silicone elastomer beads, it shows different characteristics compared with silicone elastomer beads, such as harder and less creamier nor smooth feeling.
In this study, we have developed novel cosmetic formulation using metal soap surface treated cellulose beads and synthetic mica, which shows the almost same smooth texture and a moist feel using silicone elastomer beads.
2. Materials and Methods
Spherical cellulose beads (INCI Name: Cellulose) and synthetic mica (INCI Name: Synthetic fluorophlogopite) were evaluated in liquid foundation and powder foundation formulations.
2.1. Spherical cellulose beads
The particle size of cellulose beads is 5-15µm, and we have used non treated powder itself and metal soap surface treated one in comparison.
2.2. Synthetic mica
The particle size of synthetic mica is 5-20µm, and we have used non treated powder itself and metal soap treated one in comparison.
3. Results
In our ordinal formulations, powder foundation and liquid foundation, the addition of silicone elastomer beads usually give the good characteristics such as moist and smooth feeling. Because of the microplastics issue, silicone elastomer beads should be alternated into biodegradable beads. Spherical cellulose beads must be the best candidate from silicone elastomer beads, since this is biodegradable in terms of OECD 301F and marine degradability (ASTM D 6691). When we changed silicone elastomer beads into spherical cellulose in the ordinal formulations, the moist and smooth feelings are not enough satisfied same as the formulations with silicone elastomer beads. Therefore, we have developed novel formulations adding with synthetic mica in the formulations using spherical cellulose beads. With this new idea, we could obtain good moist and smooth feeling cosmetics, powder and liquid foundations. Furthermore, we have tried to make novel formulations using metal soap surface treated spherical cellulose beads and synthetic mica instead of non treated ones, which shows much better moist and smooth feeling almost same as using silicone elastomer beads. In case of powder foundation, it should be better to use paste-like oil binders, such as vegetable (olus) oil, petrolatum or butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter in the formulation to obtain the similar feeling using silicone elastomer beads.
4. Conclusion
By the combination of spherical cellulose beads and synthetic mica, liquid foundations and powder foundations showing silicone elastomer beads-like moist and smooth feel could be prepared. Changing silicone elastomer beads into spherical cellulose beads, we are able to solve microplastics issue and obtain the same characteristics as utilizing silicone elastomer beads with the technique of novel cosmetic formulations with combination of the other ingredients.
Microplastic beads have become a major social problem in the environment, especially in marine. There are a movement to prohibit to formulate microplastic beads in all cosmetic appications. Therefore, the development of cosmetic formulations without microplastic beads is inevitable.
Spherical cellulose beads will be the one of the best alternative candidate of microplastics beads, since it is the degradable product in the nature (under the regulation of OECD 301F and ASTM D6691 for the biodegradability in marine).
In recent year, silicone elastomer beads have been widely used in cosmetics application, powder and liquid foundations. This product can give very good moist and smooth feeling in application. However, this product, silicone elastomer beads, is the microplastics, so that it is inevitable to find the alternative product. Although spherical cellulose beads have almost same shape as silicone elastomer beads, it shows different characteristics compared with silicone elastomer beads, such as harder and less creamier nor smooth feeling.
In this study, we have developed novel cosmetic formulation using metal soap surface treated cellulose beads and synthetic mica, which shows the almost same smooth texture and a moist feel using silicone elastomer beads.
2. Materials and Methods
Spherical cellulose beads (INCI Name: Cellulose) and synthetic mica (INCI Name: Synthetic fluorophlogopite) were evaluated in liquid foundation and powder foundation formulations.
2.1. Spherical cellulose beads
The particle size of cellulose beads is 5-15µm, and we have used non treated powder itself and metal soap surface treated one in comparison.
2.2. Synthetic mica
The particle size of synthetic mica is 5-20µm, and we have used non treated powder itself and metal soap treated one in comparison.
3. Results
In our ordinal formulations, powder foundation and liquid foundation, the addition of silicone elastomer beads usually give the good characteristics such as moist and smooth feeling. Because of the microplastics issue, silicone elastomer beads should be alternated into biodegradable beads. Spherical cellulose beads must be the best candidate from silicone elastomer beads, since this is biodegradable in terms of OECD 301F and marine degradability (ASTM D 6691). When we changed silicone elastomer beads into spherical cellulose in the ordinal formulations, the moist and smooth feelings are not enough satisfied same as the formulations with silicone elastomer beads. Therefore, we have developed novel formulations adding with synthetic mica in the formulations using spherical cellulose beads. With this new idea, we could obtain good moist and smooth feeling cosmetics, powder and liquid foundations. Furthermore, we have tried to make novel formulations using metal soap surface treated spherical cellulose beads and synthetic mica instead of non treated ones, which shows much better moist and smooth feeling almost same as using silicone elastomer beads. In case of powder foundation, it should be better to use paste-like oil binders, such as vegetable (olus) oil, petrolatum or butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter in the formulation to obtain the similar feeling using silicone elastomer beads.
4. Conclusion
By the combination of spherical cellulose beads and synthetic mica, liquid foundations and powder foundations showing silicone elastomer beads-like moist and smooth feel could be prepared. Changing silicone elastomer beads into spherical cellulose beads, we are able to solve microplastics issue and obtain the same characteristics as utilizing silicone elastomer beads with the technique of novel cosmetic formulations with combination of the other ingredients.