Adipose tissue consists mainly of adipocytes, its precursor cells and vascular endothelial cells, which are embedded in connecting tissue consisting of collagens and other extracellular matrix components that serve as a scaffold for these cells. Similar to damage caused by extrinsic and intrinsic factors in the epidermis and dermis, also the hypodermis suffers from these factors. These events lead to a replacement of healthy dermal white adipose tissue (dWAT) by inflamed fibrotic structures that macroscopically presents itself as a sunken, saggy face partly due to unfavorable relocation of facial fat and weakened structures. Even, e.g., UV light can influence the hypodermis by penetrating the skin deep enough to reach the tips of dWAT columns. However, since the hypodermis can communicate with the dermis via these aforementioned dWAT columns, the production of collagen can be stimulated that way as well, and volume, firmness and inflammation can be improved.
Our active ingredient is a unique blend of Vitis vinifera and Black Cohosh extracts, and possesses the ability to counteract previously mentioned signs of aging. Vitis vinifera is the Latin name of the common grape vine (Monastrell grape variety from Spain), and its extract is known for the abundance of polyphenols, anthocyanins a subtype of flavonoids, and other antioxidants, which can even be enriched due to the origin of the extract, a so-called callus culture. The root extract of Black Cohosh, which originally could be found in North America, is very rich in polyphenols and isoflavones.
We found that the active ingredient can improve inflammaging in dWAT by lowering pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-8 by -66%) and increasing anti-inflammatory factors (adiponectin by 22%). Due to its high antioxidant molecule content, we were also able to confirm the antioxidant activity for the active ingredient (689 μM Trolox equivalents) as expected. A novelty of its action is the improvement in communication between the hypodermis, mainly adipocytes, and the dermis/adjacent fibroblasts. We found that adiponectin released mainly by adipocytes after treatment with our active ingredient triggered the production of collagen (collagen I by 43%) in adjacent fibroblasts. Furthermore, the active is not only improving the surrounding of adipose tissue, but has also positive effects on adipogenesis, the formation of new adipocytes from stem cells (e.g., upregulation of genes: SLC27A1 1.68-fold, PPARG 1.2-fold, CEBPA 2.21-fold, SREBF1 1.36-fold, FABP4 1.58-fold, SCD 1.82-fold, PPARG 1.98-fold, FASN 2.66-fold and LPL 2.69-fold, and downregulation of genes: LIPE -1.8-fold, ECH1 -1.17-fold and GDF15 -1.70-fold). We could find an effect on differentiation, but also an accumulation of lipid content (lipid content by 17% and perilipin by 33%) in the adipocytes themselves, that is essential for a macroscopic plumping effect.
A clinical study was then carried out with Caucasian female volunteers between the ages of 50-60 years with menopausal symptoms. The cream was applied twice a day against placebo using a split-face approach. The results were analyzed after 7, 14 and 28 days of application. We assessed brightness (significant increase in radiance by 25.2%), erythema (significant decrease of -7.8%), wrinkles in the crow's feet (significant reduction by -10.7%) and nasolabial fold (significant reduction by -6.3%), a plumping effect on the cheekbones (significant increase of 0.52 mm in the measurement along the curvature of the cheekbones), and a self-assessment questionnaire was provided.
In an independent clinical study, we evaluated the mood enhancing effects on 10 Caucasian women, which applied a product containing our active at 3%, twice a day on the whole face for a period of 28 days. A projective test revealed that balance (positive passive) could be improved by 7.1%, dynamism (positive active) by 6.5%, and negative emotions could be decreased by 50%. For a normal human being changes of vocal markers of emotional stress are usually only receivable on a subconscious level, but experts can interpret the change in loudness and pitch, and assign them to an emotional stress level. After 28 days loudness could be reduced by -4.1 dB and the vocal pitch could be lowered by -5.1 Hz.
Improvement in skin appearance seems to have a satisfying emotional effect on the consumer, which can be evaluated by the two parameters measured. These results underline the long-term potential of our product enhancing the mood of people in addition to its general anti-aging benefits.