WOWing the market with a PEG free option: A novel water-in-oil-in-water emulsifier
Podium 66
Presented by: Paul Saporito
Emulsifiers are a special class of surfactant that are essential to the formulation of a majority of skin care products. In general, phosphate esters commonly serve as excellent emulsifiers in this application. The emulsification properties of phosphate esters are greatly enhanced by ethoxylation, which results in the addition of polyethylene glycol (PEG) chains. However, the presence of PEG chains in cosmetic ingredients is viewed negatively by some due to the potential impurities, such as 1,4 dioxane, associated with them. The clean beauty trend combined with a demanding regulatory landscape necessitates the development of alternatives to ethylene oxide in manufacture of cosmetic ingredients.
Our research has identified that 1,3 propanediol can be used in place of ethylene oxide and provide similar performance benefits. Using this technology, we have developed an emulsifier, “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate”, by reacting 1,3 propanediol with fatty alcohol followed by phosphation reaction.
Interestingly, the use of this emulsifier results in formation of “water-in-oil-in-water” (W/O/W) emulsions. Typically, W/O/W emulsions require sequential additions of multiple emulsifiers, thus requiring a multi-step process. The novel emulsifier “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate” is able to create W/O/W emulsions in a one step process without the aid of additional emulsifiers.
W/O/W emulsions are known to be high performing emulsions that are often used for improved bioavailability of active ingredients. Indeed, W/O/W emulsions resulting from the use of “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate” as the emulsifier demonstrated several interesting properties such as improving delivery of water-soluble actives and SPF boost in inorganic sunscreen formulations. As an example, Franz Cell diffusion testing showed that a cosmetic formulation with “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate” had a 29% percent improvement in caffeine transfer to the receptor cell compared to a traditional emulsion. Additionally, it has been found that formulating with this emulsifier can boost SPF by 43% in inorganic sunscreen formulations.
This novel PEG-free W/O/W emulsifier also meets stringent sustainability criteria. It is comprised of 100% biobased plant-derived carbon content, thus making it natural and vegan suitable. It is inherently biodegradable making it an environmentally friendly ingredient. This chemistry helps to create the opportunity for more sustainable products in the Personal Care market.
Our research has identified that 1,3 propanediol can be used in place of ethylene oxide and provide similar performance benefits. Using this technology, we have developed an emulsifier, “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate”, by reacting 1,3 propanediol with fatty alcohol followed by phosphation reaction.
Interestingly, the use of this emulsifier results in formation of “water-in-oil-in-water” (W/O/W) emulsions. Typically, W/O/W emulsions require sequential additions of multiple emulsifiers, thus requiring a multi-step process. The novel emulsifier “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate” is able to create W/O/W emulsions in a one step process without the aid of additional emulsifiers.
W/O/W emulsions are known to be high performing emulsions that are often used for improved bioavailability of active ingredients. Indeed, W/O/W emulsions resulting from the use of “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate” as the emulsifier demonstrated several interesting properties such as improving delivery of water-soluble actives and SPF boost in inorganic sunscreen formulations. As an example, Franz Cell diffusion testing showed that a cosmetic formulation with “Cetearyl/Cetearyl Polypropanediol-8 Phosphate” had a 29% percent improvement in caffeine transfer to the receptor cell compared to a traditional emulsion. Additionally, it has been found that formulating with this emulsifier can boost SPF by 43% in inorganic sunscreen formulations.
This novel PEG-free W/O/W emulsifier also meets stringent sustainability criteria. It is comprised of 100% biobased plant-derived carbon content, thus making it natural and vegan suitable. It is inherently biodegradable making it an environmentally friendly ingredient. This chemistry helps to create the opportunity for more sustainable products in the Personal Care market.