Rational design of Cosmetics with Thermal Water for Atopic Dermatitis
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Presented by: Rita Palmeira-de-Oliveira
Introduction:
Atopic dermatitis (AD) refers to the cutaneous and recurrent inflammatory manifestations associated with atopy. It is a chronic pruritic and inflammatory dermatosis, which progresses through crises. AD therapy aims to control symptoms, which includes the use of adjuvant products that promote skin hydration and improve its protective barrier function. Bioactive properties of thermal waters have motivated their use in the prevention and treatment of various skin conditions, leading to their commercialization in the form of vaporizers or as ingredients of other cosmetic products.
We developed a range of innovative cosmetic products, including a supplemented thermal water spray and a body lotion through a rational design, by selecting ingredients that may promote well-being and barrier function of the skin with atopic dermatitis (AD), using São Pedro do Sul Thermal Water as the core ingredient.
Materials & Methods:
The principles behind the development of these cosmetic products were based on criteria of minimalism, environmental sustainability, ease of use, innovation in texture or presentation, long duration, and protection of the skin's microbiome to maintain its barrier properties.
Active ingredients such as humectants (Glycerin), skin repairers (Panthenol), antioxidants (Tocopherol), and prebiotics (Propylene Glycol, Water, Arctium Lappa Root Extract) were incorporated in the supplemented thermal water and body lotion formulas, thus giving them unique characteristics, compared to other products on the market. In the formula of the body lotion we also added fatty esters of vegetable origin (Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides), actives that repair the skin barrier (Niacinamide), functional ingredients that mimic the natural moisturizing factor and with film-forming action (Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Fructose, Urea, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Maltose, Sodium PCA, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose), and vegetable oils (Grape seed oil).
The supplemented thermal water was prepared using the cold method and the lotion was formulated at low temperatures, both pH values were adjusted to 4.9 respecting the recommended range of values. For rheological characterization, a cone-plate viscometer was used and measurements were performed under controlled temperature conditions (T=25 °C ± 2 °C) and for 1 minute. Cytotoxicity testing of the core ingredient, either alone or supplemented, was performed through MTT test upon a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT).
Results & Discussion:
We have developed a body lotion with a soft emollient composition with an advanced texture in a spray format for easier application, and a supplemented thermal water with a soothing and refreshing action. Different formulas were tested to achieve the ideal texture and performance. The viscosity of the body lotion was identified as a key parameter for performance. Through rheological characterization, it was classified as a non-newtonian, pseudoplastic fluid (for shear rate values of 37.50, 75, 150, and 337.50 (1/s) we obtained viscosities of 236.7, 156.0, 104.1, 62.64 cP respectively) with thixotropic behavior (negative hysteresis area).
Cytotoxicity testing upon keratinocytes revealed a very biocompatible profile of the core ingredient, maintaining cellular viability even at the highest tested concentration of 50% (v/v). For the supplemented thermal water, a dose-response was present with a decrease in cellular viability after 6.25% (v/v). The high sensitivity of the method (cellular monolayer) may have contributed to this result since all ingredients were used at recommended concentrations.
Safety of both formulations is further supported by safety assessment calculations, according to the EC Regulation nº 1223/2009 based on each ingredient selected for these formulas and considered a high risk application (impaired skin barrier function).
Conclusion:
Design of a supplemented thermal water and a body lotion with Sao Pedro do Sul Thermal Water for atopic dermatitis was successfully achieved. Textural and in vitro safety properties support further in vivo testing of these products.
We developed a range of innovative cosmetic products, including a supplemented thermal water spray and a body lotion through a rational design, by selecting ingredients that may promote well-being and barrier function of the skin with atopic dermatitis (AD), using São Pedro do Sul Thermal Water as the core ingredient.
Materials & Methods:
The principles behind the development of these cosmetic products were based on criteria of minimalism, environmental sustainability, ease of use, innovation in texture or presentation, long duration, and protection of the skin's microbiome to maintain its barrier properties.
Active ingredients such as humectants (Glycerin), skin repairers (Panthenol), antioxidants (Tocopherol), and prebiotics (Propylene Glycol, Water, Arctium Lappa Root Extract) were incorporated in the supplemented thermal water and body lotion formulas, thus giving them unique characteristics, compared to other products on the market. In the formula of the body lotion we also added fatty esters of vegetable origin (Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides), actives that repair the skin barrier (Niacinamide), functional ingredients that mimic the natural moisturizing factor and with film-forming action (Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Fructose, Urea, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Maltose, Sodium PCA, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose), and vegetable oils (Grape seed oil).
The supplemented thermal water was prepared using the cold method and the lotion was formulated at low temperatures, both pH values were adjusted to 4.9 respecting the recommended range of values. For rheological characterization, a cone-plate viscometer was used and measurements were performed under controlled temperature conditions (T=25 °C ± 2 °C) and for 1 minute. Cytotoxicity testing of the core ingredient, either alone or supplemented, was performed through MTT test upon a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT).
Results & Discussion:
We have developed a body lotion with a soft emollient composition with an advanced texture in a spray format for easier application, and a supplemented thermal water with a soothing and refreshing action. Different formulas were tested to achieve the ideal texture and performance. The viscosity of the body lotion was identified as a key parameter for performance. Through rheological characterization, it was classified as a non-newtonian, pseudoplastic fluid (for shear rate values of 37.50, 75, 150, and 337.50 (1/s) we obtained viscosities of 236.7, 156.0, 104.1, 62.64 cP respectively) with thixotropic behavior (negative hysteresis area).
Cytotoxicity testing upon keratinocytes revealed a very biocompatible profile of the core ingredient, maintaining cellular viability even at the highest tested concentration of 50% (v/v). For the supplemented thermal water, a dose-response was present with a decrease in cellular viability after 6.25% (v/v). The high sensitivity of the method (cellular monolayer) may have contributed to this result since all ingredients were used at recommended concentrations.
Safety of both formulations is further supported by safety assessment calculations, according to the EC Regulation nº 1223/2009 based on each ingredient selected for these formulas and considered a high risk application (impaired skin barrier function).
Conclusion:
Design of a supplemented thermal water and a body lotion with Sao Pedro do Sul Thermal Water for atopic dermatitis was successfully achieved. Textural and in vitro safety properties support further in vivo testing of these products.