MARROCAN ORGANIC ARGAN OIL IMPROVING SKIN BARRIER FOR DRY SKIN
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Presented by: Géraldine Lemaire
Used by Berber women for more than 3000 years, unroasted argan oil is traditionally used for the massage of the joints, the care of the nails and hair. Women who prepare the oil keep a good shine of hair and have nor cracks on the hands or on the feet during the periods of intense cold.
Dry skin is an uncomfortable condition marked by scaling, itching, redness, and desquamation, commonly affects hands, arms, and legs. The skin barrier protects against extensive water loss and prevents the entry into the skin of harmful substances like irritants, allergens, and microorganisms. The stratum corneum composition is the key to maintain optimal cutaneous hydration and can be compromised by a wide variety factors, with a decrease in natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and reduction in stratum corneum water content. Dry environment can lead to the gradual dehydration of epidermal layers starting with the stratum corneum, conducting to the induction of keratinocyte proliferation and disruption of epidermal differentiation.
Argan oil is a cold pressed oil, prepared by pressing the unroasted kernels of the argan tree (Argania spinosa) fruit. The one used in this study is a fair and organic argan oil and its picking is governed by a sustainable picking charter and training in good environmental practises. Its composition is characterized by triglycerides (99% of constituent), with unsaturated fatty acids (FA) represents by oleic acid (46%), linoleic acid (34%), a-linolenic (0.09%) and non-identified FAs (2.41%). Small amounts of saturated FAs are also identified with stearic acid (5.51%) and palmitic acid (12%). Minor components (1%) are squalene (30%), sterols (22%), triterpene alcohols (9%) and vitamin E (7%).
We used a reconstructed epidermal model from our laboratory to study argan oil biological activity and demonstrated its capacity to reinforce skin barrier. For that, argan oil was applied at the surface of reconstructed epidermal model at day 7, 9 and 12 of the differentiation phases, when epidermis is partially differentiated. At day 14, epidermal barrier permeability was quantitated with fluorescent tracer Lucifer yellow and its penetration after organic argan oil treatment was compared to control. In addition, epidermal differentiation markers filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (IVL) and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) were analysed by immunofluorescence. The recording of the fluorescence after lucifer yellow application at the epidermis surface demonstrated that organic argan oil treatment decreased its penetration. By reinforcing the epidermal differentiation and barrier function, organic argan oil may prevent water loss and penetration of potentially deleterious components.
A clinical study was performed for assessing the effect of the Argan oil on the superficial aspect of the skin using a digital dermoscope (CCube). Acquisition of high-definition images permits to determine the microrelief and the quantity of scales on skin. Dry skin is characterised by an accumulation of scales in and between the furrows, and hydrated skin has a less marked microrelief and quantity of scales.
15 healthy female volunteers (from 33 to 67 years old), with dry to very dry skin on half-legs, applied daily argan oil by gentle massage until full penetration into the skin. Standardised image acquisitions were performed before the first application of argan oil at day 0 and day 7. After one week, the improvement of skin hydrated aspect was visible, with a 74% reduction of the quantity of the scales and 45% of the sharpness of the microrelief.
In conclusion, argan oil is a moisturizer agent increasing FLG, IVL, TGM1 proteins involved in the maintenance of skin barrier and by the way, decreases the penetration of harmful compounds. As FLG is a molecule involved in the production of the NMF that allows hydration of the skin, argan oil could help maintain skin moisture biologically through this mechanism. These results demonstrate that Argan oil helps to reduce the symptoms of dry skin, and visibly improve the skin.
Dry skin is an uncomfortable condition marked by scaling, itching, redness, and desquamation, commonly affects hands, arms, and legs. The skin barrier protects against extensive water loss and prevents the entry into the skin of harmful substances like irritants, allergens, and microorganisms. The stratum corneum composition is the key to maintain optimal cutaneous hydration and can be compromised by a wide variety factors, with a decrease in natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and reduction in stratum corneum water content. Dry environment can lead to the gradual dehydration of epidermal layers starting with the stratum corneum, conducting to the induction of keratinocyte proliferation and disruption of epidermal differentiation.
Argan oil is a cold pressed oil, prepared by pressing the unroasted kernels of the argan tree (Argania spinosa) fruit. The one used in this study is a fair and organic argan oil and its picking is governed by a sustainable picking charter and training in good environmental practises. Its composition is characterized by triglycerides (99% of constituent), with unsaturated fatty acids (FA) represents by oleic acid (46%), linoleic acid (34%), a-linolenic (0.09%) and non-identified FAs (2.41%). Small amounts of saturated FAs are also identified with stearic acid (5.51%) and palmitic acid (12%). Minor components (1%) are squalene (30%), sterols (22%), triterpene alcohols (9%) and vitamin E (7%).
We used a reconstructed epidermal model from our laboratory to study argan oil biological activity and demonstrated its capacity to reinforce skin barrier. For that, argan oil was applied at the surface of reconstructed epidermal model at day 7, 9 and 12 of the differentiation phases, when epidermis is partially differentiated. At day 14, epidermal barrier permeability was quantitated with fluorescent tracer Lucifer yellow and its penetration after organic argan oil treatment was compared to control. In addition, epidermal differentiation markers filaggrin (FLG), involucrin (IVL) and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) were analysed by immunofluorescence. The recording of the fluorescence after lucifer yellow application at the epidermis surface demonstrated that organic argan oil treatment decreased its penetration. By reinforcing the epidermal differentiation and barrier function, organic argan oil may prevent water loss and penetration of potentially deleterious components.
A clinical study was performed for assessing the effect of the Argan oil on the superficial aspect of the skin using a digital dermoscope (CCube). Acquisition of high-definition images permits to determine the microrelief and the quantity of scales on skin. Dry skin is characterised by an accumulation of scales in and between the furrows, and hydrated skin has a less marked microrelief and quantity of scales.
15 healthy female volunteers (from 33 to 67 years old), with dry to very dry skin on half-legs, applied daily argan oil by gentle massage until full penetration into the skin. Standardised image acquisitions were performed before the first application of argan oil at day 0 and day 7. After one week, the improvement of skin hydrated aspect was visible, with a 74% reduction of the quantity of the scales and 45% of the sharpness of the microrelief.
In conclusion, argan oil is a moisturizer agent increasing FLG, IVL, TGM1 proteins involved in the maintenance of skin barrier and by the way, decreases the penetration of harmful compounds. As FLG is a molecule involved in the production of the NMF that allows hydration of the skin, argan oil could help maintain skin moisture biologically through this mechanism. These results demonstrate that Argan oil helps to reduce the symptoms of dry skin, and visibly improve the skin.