A biomimetic approach inspired from resurrection plants to promote skin resilience
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Presented by: Mathilde Frechet
Introduction:
Like plants, humans are exposed to harsh environmental conditions due to climate changes: hot weather, extreme cold, humid climate. These events are likely to occur more frequently and deeply affect human skin resilience properties the guardian of skin healthiness. Exposure to environmental stress make cells more prone to damages as protein and DNA alterations, causing detrimental effects through alteration of their intrinsic defense mechanisms : anti-oxidant reservoirs, DNA repair, proteostasis machinery mainly via heat shock proteins regulation which ensure the functionality and protection of skin contents (hyaluronic acid HA, proteoglycans, proteins.). To propose a cosmetic solution aiming to improve the skin capacity to fight against environmental stresses, we used a biomimetic approach by studying resurrection plants. These plants are well known for their resisting properties against constraints, they can survive harsh conditions through garnering resources such as anti-oxidant capacities, DNA repair and proteins’ protection, achieved mainly through the production of protective sugars called RFOs (Raffinose Family Oligosaccharide’s). Interestingly, RFOs production depend on galactinol, a molecule harboring by its own high protective properties against abiotic and biotic stresses. This work presents in vitro, and clinical studies demonstrating the benefit of a composition containing galactinol obtained by biocatalysis (a sustainable white biotechnology process) to preserve skin resilience and healthiness.
Methods:
To demonstrate the relevance of this biomimetic approach, we studied the efficiency of the composition to protect human skin cells against environmental stresses: UVB (30 mJ/cm²) and UVA (10 J/cm²). The cell protective effect was confirmed by cells morphology observations. In an in vitro model of environmental stress (temperature and humidity), we studied the expression of hsp27, a key heat shock protein involved in skin homeostasis. To highlight the mimetic mechanism with resurrection plants, we studied the modulation by the composition and galactinol of genes involved in the antioxidation, heat shock proteins, DNA repair enzymes and macromolecules such as hyaluronic acid and proteoglycans. HA production was quantified. A clinical study was performed during 28 days on 20 women (50 to 60 years old) using twice a day the cream containing the active or the placebo (half-face). The peculiarity of this panel relies on their living habits, they spent most of the day “outside”. Skin mechanical properties and wrinkles volume were studied. As our skin health and its resilience against assaults rests mainly on the epidermis and its microbiome, we studied them by Metaproteomics, a technology used mainly in gut microbiota field. Metaproteomics provide valuable descriptive and functional insights simultaneously on these two allies with complex interplay by the analysis of the proteins.
Results:
The cell morphology confirmed the beneficial effect of the composition to protect skin cells from environmental stressors through the up-regulation of heat shocks proteins (HSP27, HSP70 and HSP90), antioxidant enzymes (G6PD, GPX1, HMOX1, NQO1, TXNRD1), DNA repair player (GADD45A), extracellular matrix components such as elastin, collagens, and proteoglycans. A protection related to environmental stress was confirmed in the in vitro study mimicking climatic changes: heat stress (44°C) or heat + humidity stress (44°C and 45% RH). The composition stimulates HA production by 78%. After one month of use, improvements of the face skin’s biomechanical properties (elasticity +18.2% and firmness + 5.5%) and wrinkles aspect (-18.9%) were observed. Metaproteomics study identified 4785 proteins, among them, 343 proteins were significantly modulated (from human, fungi and bacterial origins) impacting positively antioxidants, proteostasis, metabolism, anti-inflammation and extra-cellular matrix pathways. The results demonstrate that the composition wasn’t harmful to skin microbiome, keeping its composition stable.
Discussion and Conclusion:
We showed that a biomimetic approach inspired from resurrection plants can clearly lead to the development of sustainable and efficient cosmetic active ingredient. Indeed, we demonstrated in vitro that a composition containing “galactinol”, a molecule described in plants as a “safeguarder” can be transposed in skin cells to provide skin resilience and healthiness. The composition and the galactinol activates similarly to plants, defense mechanisms against biotic and abiotic stresses. The clinical study highlighted that metaproteomics used for the first time on human skin is a powerful technology allowing the simultaneous study of skin cells and skin microbiota functionality. Indeed, we showed clearly that modulating proteins expression at keratinocytes and microbiome levels leads to visible outcomes: improvement of skin wrinkles, mechanical properties and skin barrier function.
Like plants, humans are exposed to harsh environmental conditions due to climate changes: hot weather, extreme cold, humid climate. These events are likely to occur more frequently and deeply affect human skin resilience properties the guardian of skin healthiness. Exposure to environmental stress make cells more prone to damages as protein and DNA alterations, causing detrimental effects through alteration of their intrinsic defense mechanisms : anti-oxidant reservoirs, DNA repair, proteostasis machinery mainly via heat shock proteins regulation which ensure the functionality and protection of skin contents (hyaluronic acid HA, proteoglycans, proteins.). To propose a cosmetic solution aiming to improve the skin capacity to fight against environmental stresses, we used a biomimetic approach by studying resurrection plants. These plants are well known for their resisting properties against constraints, they can survive harsh conditions through garnering resources such as anti-oxidant capacities, DNA repair and proteins’ protection, achieved mainly through the production of protective sugars called RFOs (Raffinose Family Oligosaccharide’s). Interestingly, RFOs production depend on galactinol, a molecule harboring by its own high protective properties against abiotic and biotic stresses. This work presents in vitro, and clinical studies demonstrating the benefit of a composition containing galactinol obtained by biocatalysis (a sustainable white biotechnology process) to preserve skin resilience and healthiness.
Methods:
To demonstrate the relevance of this biomimetic approach, we studied the efficiency of the composition to protect human skin cells against environmental stresses: UVB (30 mJ/cm²) and UVA (10 J/cm²). The cell protective effect was confirmed by cells morphology observations. In an in vitro model of environmental stress (temperature and humidity), we studied the expression of hsp27, a key heat shock protein involved in skin homeostasis. To highlight the mimetic mechanism with resurrection plants, we studied the modulation by the composition and galactinol of genes involved in the antioxidation, heat shock proteins, DNA repair enzymes and macromolecules such as hyaluronic acid and proteoglycans. HA production was quantified. A clinical study was performed during 28 days on 20 women (50 to 60 years old) using twice a day the cream containing the active or the placebo (half-face). The peculiarity of this panel relies on their living habits, they spent most of the day “outside”. Skin mechanical properties and wrinkles volume were studied. As our skin health and its resilience against assaults rests mainly on the epidermis and its microbiome, we studied them by Metaproteomics, a technology used mainly in gut microbiota field. Metaproteomics provide valuable descriptive and functional insights simultaneously on these two allies with complex interplay by the analysis of the proteins.
Results:
The cell morphology confirmed the beneficial effect of the composition to protect skin cells from environmental stressors through the up-regulation of heat shocks proteins (HSP27, HSP70 and HSP90), antioxidant enzymes (G6PD, GPX1, HMOX1, NQO1, TXNRD1), DNA repair player (GADD45A), extracellular matrix components such as elastin, collagens, and proteoglycans. A protection related to environmental stress was confirmed in the in vitro study mimicking climatic changes: heat stress (44°C) or heat + humidity stress (44°C and 45% RH). The composition stimulates HA production by 78%. After one month of use, improvements of the face skin’s biomechanical properties (elasticity +18.2% and firmness + 5.5%) and wrinkles aspect (-18.9%) were observed. Metaproteomics study identified 4785 proteins, among them, 343 proteins were significantly modulated (from human, fungi and bacterial origins) impacting positively antioxidants, proteostasis, metabolism, anti-inflammation and extra-cellular matrix pathways. The results demonstrate that the composition wasn’t harmful to skin microbiome, keeping its composition stable.
Discussion and Conclusion:
We showed that a biomimetic approach inspired from resurrection plants can clearly lead to the development of sustainable and efficient cosmetic active ingredient. Indeed, we demonstrated in vitro that a composition containing “galactinol”, a molecule described in plants as a “safeguarder” can be transposed in skin cells to provide skin resilience and healthiness. The composition and the galactinol activates similarly to plants, defense mechanisms against biotic and abiotic stresses. The clinical study highlighted that metaproteomics used for the first time on human skin is a powerful technology allowing the simultaneous study of skin cells and skin microbiota functionality. Indeed, we showed clearly that modulating proteins expression at keratinocytes and microbiome levels leads to visible outcomes: improvement of skin wrinkles, mechanical properties and skin barrier function.