The Matrix – a DGK initiative to provide guidance to substantiating antipollution claims in cosmetics
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Presented by: Remo Campiche
Introduction: The concerns about the adverse effects air pollution can have on our health is on the rise worldwide. Pollutants are very varied in nature, can be of natural or anthropogenic origin with typical pollutants ranging from particulate matter (PM; originating e.g. from exhaust, smoke, pollen or ash) and gaseous compounds (e.g. nitrogen and sulfur oxides, volatile organic carbons or ozone) to light (e.g. UVR or blue light) and heavy metals. Not only the lungs but also the skin is exposed to pollutants on a daily basis, and this exposure can lead to signs of premature aging, damage to the skin barrier, pigmentation disorders as well as cell damage. In addition, preexisting skin problems such as dry and irritated skin as well as skin impurities can be exacerbated.
Although a wide variety of cosmetic products with different “antipollution” claims are already on the market, care needs to be taken, which modes of action are being looked at. Due to the varied nature of the pollutants and the effects they can have, efficacy tests and claims need to be relevant and correctly substantiated. There is no single “one size fits all” type claim or test method to cover all aspects of “anti-pollution” efficacy and claims.
Methods and Results: The German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK) working group [WG] “Anti-pollution”, an interdisciplinary WG consisting of experts from industry and academia, started an initiative to develop an interactive matrix in which information on different types of air pollutants, some of their effects on skin, cosmetic application types and ingredients that may be beneficial in this context and relevant methods to evaluate the efficacy can be found. To this accord, literature was screened to identify effects that take place in and on the skin after exposure to pollutants, and different cosmetic approaches how these effects could possibly be modulated considering the specific mechanism addressed were looked at. Methods that are accessible, and which address the potential damage being done to the skin, were identified. These were assessed as to their use to substantiate the specific claims made in the context of pollutant interactions with the skin. The results were integrated into an interactive matrix intended for public use which can be found on the DGK website (Anti-Pollution - DGK e.V. (dgk-ev.de)).
Discussion and Conclusion: The DGK WG “Anti-pollution”, has put much effort into developing an interactive matrix in which pollutants, mechanisms of action, types of damage to the skin (and/or protective effects), formulation hints, and methods are linked together in order to help cosmetic formulators, scientists, technicians and others to better identify pollutant-types and how to assess their effects. The matrix will be made available at the DGK website in both German and English language. The matrix is not intended to be all-encompassing and complete but is comprehensive enough to serve as an information source and to stimulate the user to gain a better understanding of factors involved and to explore further how to address their claim support challenges when developing cosmetic products. Furthermore, this matrix may serve as a template to construct additional matrices on various topics relevant to cosmetic science and the cosmetics industry.
Although a wide variety of cosmetic products with different “antipollution” claims are already on the market, care needs to be taken, which modes of action are being looked at. Due to the varied nature of the pollutants and the effects they can have, efficacy tests and claims need to be relevant and correctly substantiated. There is no single “one size fits all” type claim or test method to cover all aspects of “anti-pollution” efficacy and claims.
Methods and Results: The German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK) working group [WG] “Anti-pollution”, an interdisciplinary WG consisting of experts from industry and academia, started an initiative to develop an interactive matrix in which information on different types of air pollutants, some of their effects on skin, cosmetic application types and ingredients that may be beneficial in this context and relevant methods to evaluate the efficacy can be found. To this accord, literature was screened to identify effects that take place in and on the skin after exposure to pollutants, and different cosmetic approaches how these effects could possibly be modulated considering the specific mechanism addressed were looked at. Methods that are accessible, and which address the potential damage being done to the skin, were identified. These were assessed as to their use to substantiate the specific claims made in the context of pollutant interactions with the skin. The results were integrated into an interactive matrix intended for public use which can be found on the DGK website (Anti-Pollution - DGK e.V. (dgk-ev.de)).
Discussion and Conclusion: The DGK WG “Anti-pollution”, has put much effort into developing an interactive matrix in which pollutants, mechanisms of action, types of damage to the skin (and/or protective effects), formulation hints, and methods are linked together in order to help cosmetic formulators, scientists, technicians and others to better identify pollutant-types and how to assess their effects. The matrix will be made available at the DGK website in both German and English language. The matrix is not intended to be all-encompassing and complete but is comprehensive enough to serve as an information source and to stimulate the user to gain a better understanding of factors involved and to explore further how to address their claim support challenges when developing cosmetic products. Furthermore, this matrix may serve as a template to construct additional matrices on various topics relevant to cosmetic science and the cosmetics industry.