09:00 - 10:50
Naturally Derived Polymers for Cosmetic Formulations – A Future Perspective
Keynote Lecture
Presented by: Tony O’Lenick
Tony O’Lenick, Thomas O’Lenick
Nascent Technologies,
In this lecture, the application of sustainability principles in personal care products will be explored. It will consider a number of different approaches to developing naturally derived polymers with the goal of improving their sustainability and the possible next steps.

The cosmetic industry’s approach can be compared to the automotive industry’s quest for a more sustainable mode of transport. First came the traditional petroleum propelled cars (cf. synthetic chemicals), then came hybrids (electric / gasoline), and more latterly fully electric cars (cf. naturally derived products). In our industry, an example of a hybrid molecule is PEG-8 dimethicone, based on naturally derived EO (ethylene oxide) and an analogy to the electric car would be Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate Propanediol Copolymer – a polyester that is naturally derived. Like the automotive example there are other factors that need to be considered in developing and marketing new more sustainable polymers. These include safety, regulatory approval, availability and cost, all of which need to be evaluated before any product can be introduced.

There are a number of different chemical approaches that are available to make raw materials that address different aspects of sustainability. These include source substitution and totally new polymer development. To better understand the substantivity of these new polymer classes I will introduce the “BRAG” system used to evaluate new materials to determine their potential improved sustainability and will speculate on their potential use in cosmetic products of the future.