A sustainable and functional alternative to microplastics in cosmetic applications
Podium 61
Presented by: Alexandria Trigiani
Introduction:
The Personal Care market is increasingly driven by consumers demand for more sustainable products in all possible applications. The global awareness of environmental damage coupled with constantly changing regulations is leading the cosmetic industry to innovate and develop sustainable and functional replacements of existing ingredients that don’t meet consumers expectations. With some countries banning plastic microbeads used as exfoliants in favour of natural alternatives, the industry is now moving away from microplastics which are used as sensory and optical enhancers in formulations. In this study, we will discuss a viable alternative to these microplastics, from a sustainable and performance perspective.
Purpose:
The purpose of this research was to demonstrate that spherical cellulose texturizing powders which are 100% natural, readily biodegradable, vegan suitable, derived from upcycled black spruce and environmentally friendly processed are excellent alternatives to microplastics for sensory and optical benefits in skin care and colour cosmetic applications.
Methods:
The following criteria are examined using instruments and industry standard methodologies:
In the study, the spherical celluloses developed were evaluated against microplastics and other celluloses on the market. They were characterised using SEM (Scanning Electron Microscopy) for size, shape, and surface morphology and BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller theory) for surface area and bulk density.
Haze and soft-focus effect were evaluated to demonstrate the skin blurring property of the spherical cellulose powders. Formulations containing the selected ingredients at 5% inclusion level and a control formulation were applied onto BioSkin® plates. Comparisons were made with resulting images and number of pores analysed using Visia imaging. Haze study was carried out using the same formulations, applied onto a substrate with a film applicator and measured by a Hazemeter Spectrophotometer.
Sensory attributes of formulations containing either the spherical cellulose or a microplastic commonly used in colour cosmetics were assessed by a panel. Colour intensity, coverage and silkiness were evaluated in an eyeshadow containing the selected ingredients at 0.5% inclusion level while lipsticks, containing the selected ingredients at 5% inclusion level were studied for their glide, shininess, creaminess, and tack. It was completed by a hardness evaluation of the lipstick using a Texture Analyzer.
Results:
Particle characterisation showed that the spherical celluloses developed had a tighter particle size distribution and morphology compared to other more fibrous cellulose powders and microplastics that are on the market. It allows the spherical cellulose powders to have a similar, if not better in some instances, sensory and optical benefits than microplastics.
A soft-focus effect, with fines lines and wrinkles reduction benefits, were seen when using the spherical cellulose powders on BioSkin®. The visual skin blurring was confirmed with the pore minimising evaluation where the spherical cellulose powders performed better compared to other celluloses and microplastics due to their tighter size distribution and shape
The haze measurements, on its side, gave similar good results for the spherical celluloses, which provide both high diffuse and high direct transmission of light leading to a soft-focus effect.
Sensory analysis showed that the spherical cellulose powders had similar colour intensity, coverage and silkiness compared to a microplastic commonly used in colour cosmetics when measured from an eyeshadow.
Sensory results for the lipsticks presented no significant differences either in terms of glide, shine, creaminess and tack, showing that the spherical cellulose powders can be a sensory equivalent to a commonly used microplastic in eyeshadow and lipsticks. Using a Texture Analyzer, it was found that the spherical cellulose powders provided better lipstick structure in terms of hardness compared to the microplastic which was significantly softer.
Discussion and Conclusion:
The physical and chemical properties of the spherical cellulose powders were characterized and compared to the microplastics, and the more fibrous cellulose powders currently used in colour cosmetics and skin care formulations. The results of this study show that spherical cellulose texturizing powders can be successfully used as an alternative to microplastics in a variety of formulations and maintain or exceed industry performance.
Endnote:
Anomera is grateful for the partnership with McGill University, recognition of our FSC/sustainable processes and products and generous support of the Quebec and Canadian Governments including the Ministry of Economy, Ministry of Forestry, Sustainable Development Technology Canada, CanExport, NSERC, Investissement Quebec, EcoCanada and the GreenCentre.
The Personal Care market is increasingly driven by consumers demand for more sustainable products in all possible applications. The global awareness of environmental damage coupled with constantly changing regulations is leading the cosmetic industry to innovate and develop sustainable and functional replacements of existing ingredients that don’t meet consumers expectations. With some countries banning plastic microbeads used as exfoliants in favour of natural alternatives, the industry is now moving away from microplastics which are used as sensory and optical enhancers in formulations. In this study, we will discuss a viable alternative to these microplastics, from a sustainable and performance perspective.
Purpose:
The purpose of this research was to demonstrate that spherical cellulose texturizing powders which are 100% natural, readily biodegradable, vegan suitable, derived from upcycled black spruce and environmentally friendly processed are excellent alternatives to microplastics for sensory and optical benefits in skin care and colour cosmetic applications.
Methods:
The following criteria are examined using instruments and industry standard methodologies:
In the study, the spherical celluloses developed were evaluated against microplastics and other celluloses on the market. They were characterised using SEM (Scanning Electron Microscopy) for size, shape, and surface morphology and BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller theory) for surface area and bulk density.
Haze and soft-focus effect were evaluated to demonstrate the skin blurring property of the spherical cellulose powders. Formulations containing the selected ingredients at 5% inclusion level and a control formulation were applied onto BioSkin® plates. Comparisons were made with resulting images and number of pores analysed using Visia imaging. Haze study was carried out using the same formulations, applied onto a substrate with a film applicator and measured by a Hazemeter Spectrophotometer.
Sensory attributes of formulations containing either the spherical cellulose or a microplastic commonly used in colour cosmetics were assessed by a panel. Colour intensity, coverage and silkiness were evaluated in an eyeshadow containing the selected ingredients at 0.5% inclusion level while lipsticks, containing the selected ingredients at 5% inclusion level were studied for their glide, shininess, creaminess, and tack. It was completed by a hardness evaluation of the lipstick using a Texture Analyzer.
Results:
Particle characterisation showed that the spherical celluloses developed had a tighter particle size distribution and morphology compared to other more fibrous cellulose powders and microplastics that are on the market. It allows the spherical cellulose powders to have a similar, if not better in some instances, sensory and optical benefits than microplastics.
A soft-focus effect, with fines lines and wrinkles reduction benefits, were seen when using the spherical cellulose powders on BioSkin®. The visual skin blurring was confirmed with the pore minimising evaluation where the spherical cellulose powders performed better compared to other celluloses and microplastics due to their tighter size distribution and shape
The haze measurements, on its side, gave similar good results for the spherical celluloses, which provide both high diffuse and high direct transmission of light leading to a soft-focus effect.
Sensory analysis showed that the spherical cellulose powders had similar colour intensity, coverage and silkiness compared to a microplastic commonly used in colour cosmetics when measured from an eyeshadow.
Sensory results for the lipsticks presented no significant differences either in terms of glide, shine, creaminess and tack, showing that the spherical cellulose powders can be a sensory equivalent to a commonly used microplastic in eyeshadow and lipsticks. Using a Texture Analyzer, it was found that the spherical cellulose powders provided better lipstick structure in terms of hardness compared to the microplastic which was significantly softer.
Discussion and Conclusion:
The physical and chemical properties of the spherical cellulose powders were characterized and compared to the microplastics, and the more fibrous cellulose powders currently used in colour cosmetics and skin care formulations. The results of this study show that spherical cellulose texturizing powders can be successfully used as an alternative to microplastics in a variety of formulations and maintain or exceed industry performance.
Endnote:
Anomera is grateful for the partnership with McGill University, recognition of our FSC/sustainable processes and products and generous support of the Quebec and Canadian Governments including the Ministry of Economy, Ministry of Forestry, Sustainable Development Technology Canada, CanExport, NSERC, Investissement Quebec, EcoCanada and the GreenCentre.