STUDY OF THE SOOTHING AND REPAIR EFFECTS OF AN INNOVATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS COMPLEX
320
Presented by: Xiaoyun Liu
BACKGROUND
The skin barrier function and immune system were important for skin water retention and skin self-repair when exposed to internal and external stress. In the corneous layer, the epidermis consists of corneocytes, phospholipids, and water. The corneocytes are full of keratin and substances that enable the fixing of water, and phospholipids are from the differentiation of keratinocytes. Together, these lipids and water form the hydrolipidic film, which is part of this natural skin barrier, because it helps to ensure the uniformity of the skin’s surface. If the skin lacks water, it may produce excess sebum, known as reactional seborrhoea, which can then result in blackheads, inflammation, roughness, etc... The imperfections healing process takes place in three stages: reduction in general inflammation, increase in cellular activity, and reconstruction of cellular tissue.
An innovative active ingredients complex was developed to meet the growing demand for skin moisturizing, soothing, and repair. The complex is comprised of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, adenium obesum leaf cell extract, and vitis vinifera (Grape) flower cell extract. The cell extracts are obtained from dedifferentiated plant cells. Thanks to its phospholipid bilayer, the cell extracts could help hydrolyze hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate to be absorbed better by the skin. Especially, the sodium acetylated hyaluronate is hydrophilic and lipophilic, thus it could absorb water while assimilated by the skin lipid membrane. This study aims to validate the moisture, soothing, and repair effects of this innovative complex.
METHOD
In this study, we evaluated the complex’s moisturizing effect by using an in vitro reconstructed epidermis, the retained water, and transepidermal water loss were evaluated. Proinflammatory factors IL-6, IL-1alpha, and TNF-alpha and cell proliferation mark KI-67 were studied on the epidermis. The effect on skin repair was studied through glycosaminoglycans synthesis by the human fibroblasts. For the clinical test, 30 volunteers(18-35 years old women) with combination or oily skin, with traces of acne, at least 10 lesions (blackheads or microcysts) and at least 5 inflammatory lesions (nodules, papules) and pigmentation defects (scars) were recruited and used emulsion with 0.5% complex on the face twice a day for 28 days. Clinical scoring and pH measurement was used to record the changes at day0 and day28.
RESULTS AND CONCLUSION
Under the experimental conditions used, 15 minutes and 30 minutes treatments on the epidermis with 0.5% of the complex resulted in an increase in water retention by 24% and 35%, and a decrease in the transepidermal water loss by 27% and 24%. After 24 hours of treatment with 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5% complex, a significant increase of Ki67 was observed respectively by 11%, 17%, and 23%. After treated by 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5% complex, IL-1alpha was decreased by 21%, 27% and 32%, while IL-6 was decreased by 20%, 25% and 30%, and TNF-alpha decreases by 19%, 26% and 30% respectively. As well, significant stimulation of the global glycosaminoglycans was observed in human fibroblasts, respectively by 16%, 27%, and 35%, under the treatment of 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5% complex. The clinical results showed that the complex presents a good soothing and repair effect after 28 days' application in normal conditions of use. Compared to Day 0, a decrease of redness by 19%, a decrease of imperfection by 31%, and a decrease of brown marks by 30% were validated on day 28. On day 28, the skin pH was decreased by 7%.
In general, the innovative active complex helps the water retention and decreases the TWEL, thus stimulating epidermis and dermis regeneration. At the same time, it provides a soothing effect by reducing skin inflammation. Thanks to those related actions, the complex helps to get skin stronger and more uniform, that looks more healthy.
Key words: water retention, soothing, repair, innovative active ingredients complex
The skin barrier function and immune system were important for skin water retention and skin self-repair when exposed to internal and external stress. In the corneous layer, the epidermis consists of corneocytes, phospholipids, and water. The corneocytes are full of keratin and substances that enable the fixing of water, and phospholipids are from the differentiation of keratinocytes. Together, these lipids and water form the hydrolipidic film, which is part of this natural skin barrier, because it helps to ensure the uniformity of the skin’s surface. If the skin lacks water, it may produce excess sebum, known as reactional seborrhoea, which can then result in blackheads, inflammation, roughness, etc... The imperfections healing process takes place in three stages: reduction in general inflammation, increase in cellular activity, and reconstruction of cellular tissue.
An innovative active ingredients complex was developed to meet the growing demand for skin moisturizing, soothing, and repair. The complex is comprised of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, adenium obesum leaf cell extract, and vitis vinifera (Grape) flower cell extract. The cell extracts are obtained from dedifferentiated plant cells. Thanks to its phospholipid bilayer, the cell extracts could help hydrolyze hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate to be absorbed better by the skin. Especially, the sodium acetylated hyaluronate is hydrophilic and lipophilic, thus it could absorb water while assimilated by the skin lipid membrane. This study aims to validate the moisture, soothing, and repair effects of this innovative complex.
METHOD
In this study, we evaluated the complex’s moisturizing effect by using an in vitro reconstructed epidermis, the retained water, and transepidermal water loss were evaluated. Proinflammatory factors IL-6, IL-1alpha, and TNF-alpha and cell proliferation mark KI-67 were studied on the epidermis. The effect on skin repair was studied through glycosaminoglycans synthesis by the human fibroblasts. For the clinical test, 30 volunteers(18-35 years old women) with combination or oily skin, with traces of acne, at least 10 lesions (blackheads or microcysts) and at least 5 inflammatory lesions (nodules, papules) and pigmentation defects (scars) were recruited and used emulsion with 0.5% complex on the face twice a day for 28 days. Clinical scoring and pH measurement was used to record the changes at day0 and day28.
RESULTS AND CONCLUSION
Under the experimental conditions used, 15 minutes and 30 minutes treatments on the epidermis with 0.5% of the complex resulted in an increase in water retention by 24% and 35%, and a decrease in the transepidermal water loss by 27% and 24%. After 24 hours of treatment with 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5% complex, a significant increase of Ki67 was observed respectively by 11%, 17%, and 23%. After treated by 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5% complex, IL-1alpha was decreased by 21%, 27% and 32%, while IL-6 was decreased by 20%, 25% and 30%, and TNF-alpha decreases by 19%, 26% and 30% respectively. As well, significant stimulation of the global glycosaminoglycans was observed in human fibroblasts, respectively by 16%, 27%, and 35%, under the treatment of 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5% complex. The clinical results showed that the complex presents a good soothing and repair effect after 28 days' application in normal conditions of use. Compared to Day 0, a decrease of redness by 19%, a decrease of imperfection by 31%, and a decrease of brown marks by 30% were validated on day 28. On day 28, the skin pH was decreased by 7%.
In general, the innovative active complex helps the water retention and decreases the TWEL, thus stimulating epidermis and dermis regeneration. At the same time, it provides a soothing effect by reducing skin inflammation. Thanks to those related actions, the complex helps to get skin stronger and more uniform, that looks more healthy.
Key words: water retention, soothing, repair, innovative active ingredients complex