A Novel Delivery System for Insoluble Active Ingredients in Cosmetics
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Presented by: Song Hua Xuan
Abstract:
Clean beauty is a big trend in cosmetics, which advocates the use of cleaner, greener, more natural and safer cosmetic ingredients. Among the clean beauty guidelines, PEG-free and silicone-free gather the most attention as they are the main building blocks of thickeners and emulsifiers for cosmetics. Conventional insoluble ingredients stabilization is based on liposome technology, but its application in the cosmetic field is limited due to the disadvantages of low solubility, short half-life, and high cost of production. In this study, we will introduce a system that can stabilize a large amount of insoluble ingredients such as pseudo-ceramide while which can meet clean beauty.
Here, we focused on the preparation and characterization of lipid carrier which serve as colloidal carriers for the pseudo-ceramide. The surfactant screening showed that the most suitable surfactant was found to be a polyglyceryl-10 stearate, a PEG and PPG-free surfactant, which is suitable for clean beauty trend. We also found that the optimized lipid carrier is containing disteardimonium hectorite, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, phytosterol, stearic acid, pseudo-ceramide, and this system can enable to form multilamellar structure. The structural analysis of the liquid crystalline emulsion including the lipid carrier was proved by polarized microscope and cryo-SEM, et al. In addition, when applied it to cosmetic formulations, emulsion composed of lipid carriers was more stable than liposome by the turbiscan analysis. The fluorescence microscope measurement indicated that the disteardimonium hectorite, is in a position of the emulsion surface, which may contribute to increasing the stability of the vehicle. Furthermore, we also evaluated the moisturizing effect of a cream containing pseudo-ceramide. As a result of the experiment, it had the best moisturizing effect compared to the general commercial emulsion.
Based on these findings, it is expected that disteardimonium hectorite-based lipid carrier will play an important role as a stable insoluble ingredients delivery system in cosmetics.
Clean beauty is a big trend in cosmetics, which advocates the use of cleaner, greener, more natural and safer cosmetic ingredients. Among the clean beauty guidelines, PEG-free and silicone-free gather the most attention as they are the main building blocks of thickeners and emulsifiers for cosmetics. Conventional insoluble ingredients stabilization is based on liposome technology, but its application in the cosmetic field is limited due to the disadvantages of low solubility, short half-life, and high cost of production. In this study, we will introduce a system that can stabilize a large amount of insoluble ingredients such as pseudo-ceramide while which can meet clean beauty.
Here, we focused on the preparation and characterization of lipid carrier which serve as colloidal carriers for the pseudo-ceramide. The surfactant screening showed that the most suitable surfactant was found to be a polyglyceryl-10 stearate, a PEG and PPG-free surfactant, which is suitable for clean beauty trend. We also found that the optimized lipid carrier is containing disteardimonium hectorite, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, phytosterol, stearic acid, pseudo-ceramide, and this system can enable to form multilamellar structure. The structural analysis of the liquid crystalline emulsion including the lipid carrier was proved by polarized microscope and cryo-SEM, et al. In addition, when applied it to cosmetic formulations, emulsion composed of lipid carriers was more stable than liposome by the turbiscan analysis. The fluorescence microscope measurement indicated that the disteardimonium hectorite, is in a position of the emulsion surface, which may contribute to increasing the stability of the vehicle. Furthermore, we also evaluated the moisturizing effect of a cream containing pseudo-ceramide. As a result of the experiment, it had the best moisturizing effect compared to the general commercial emulsion.
Based on these findings, it is expected that disteardimonium hectorite-based lipid carrier will play an important role as a stable insoluble ingredients delivery system in cosmetics.