Nicotinamide Mononucleotide Application in Skin Care Products with Potential Excellent Efficacy
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Presented by: Yan Long
Introduction
Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+) is an important coenzyme in cell redox reaction, which is widely involved in the regulation of various biological processes such as cell growth, differentiation, energy metabolism and apoptosis. Nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) is an important precursor for the synthesis of NAD+ in human body, which can be converted into NAD+ to exert its physiological functions and can slow down the physiological decline of the organism, enhance energy metabolism, and prolong lifespan. At present, the application research of NMN is mainly focused on medical drugs, health products and foods, while the application in cosmetics products is nearly blank. In this paper, we explored the application and efficacy of NMN in cosmetics products with some cell anabolism and varieties of enzyme-linked catalytic reactions. NMN is an endogenous substance in body with good safety and has broad prospects in the development of cosmetics products as a functional ingredient.
Methods
For the formulation application study, NMN was used in simple basic skin care formulas with an addition level from 0.5% to 10%. The formulas stability and safety were tested. Stability was tested in 3 months 45℃ evaluation. After that, the level of NMN in the samples after the stability was tested with high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method. Similarly, the Chick Chorioallantoic Membrane (CAM) test and Pacth test were used to test the safety of these samples.
Regarding the efficacy study, in vitro and in vivo tests were carried out including inflammatory factor NO inhibition test, promoting Pro-collagen synthesis test, and volunteers’ anti-wrinkle and moisturizing efficacy tests. Two instrument methods of Antera 3D and DermaLab® Combo were used to evaluate volunteer’s continuous performance, such as wrinkle parameters, moisture, and skin rebound time indicators.
Results and Discussion
NMN has good water solubility and could be applied to various formulation systems. While it has poor stability in high temperature, the concentration of NMN was decomposed by nearly 90% after being placed under 45℃ for a month. Formulations containing NMN were relatively stable under other test conditions e.g. room temperature and low temperature.
Cell tests shown that NMN has a certain skin soothing and anti-wrinkle effect. According to the cytotoxicity test, the concentration without obvious cytotoxicity was selected for the next experiment. When the concentration of NMN was 0.003%, the inhibition rate of inflammatory factor NO was 16.86%. When the concentration of NMN was increased to 0.005%, the Pro-collagen 1α1 increase rate was 45.19%.
For efficacy performance, essence sample with 1% NMN has good moisturizing performance after 3 weeks using, and moisture of skin increased by 34.66%. However, compared with blank control, there is no obvious wrinkle improvement effect observed. Maybe we need to continue to monitor the long term performance.
Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+) is an important coenzyme in cell redox reaction, which is widely involved in the regulation of various biological processes such as cell growth, differentiation, energy metabolism and apoptosis. Nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) is an important precursor for the synthesis of NAD+ in human body, which can be converted into NAD+ to exert its physiological functions and can slow down the physiological decline of the organism, enhance energy metabolism, and prolong lifespan. At present, the application research of NMN is mainly focused on medical drugs, health products and foods, while the application in cosmetics products is nearly blank. In this paper, we explored the application and efficacy of NMN in cosmetics products with some cell anabolism and varieties of enzyme-linked catalytic reactions. NMN is an endogenous substance in body with good safety and has broad prospects in the development of cosmetics products as a functional ingredient.
Methods
For the formulation application study, NMN was used in simple basic skin care formulas with an addition level from 0.5% to 10%. The formulas stability and safety were tested. Stability was tested in 3 months 45℃ evaluation. After that, the level of NMN in the samples after the stability was tested with high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method. Similarly, the Chick Chorioallantoic Membrane (CAM) test and Pacth test were used to test the safety of these samples.
Regarding the efficacy study, in vitro and in vivo tests were carried out including inflammatory factor NO inhibition test, promoting Pro-collagen synthesis test, and volunteers’ anti-wrinkle and moisturizing efficacy tests. Two instrument methods of Antera 3D and DermaLab® Combo were used to evaluate volunteer’s continuous performance, such as wrinkle parameters, moisture, and skin rebound time indicators.
Results and Discussion
NMN has good water solubility and could be applied to various formulation systems. While it has poor stability in high temperature, the concentration of NMN was decomposed by nearly 90% after being placed under 45℃ for a month. Formulations containing NMN were relatively stable under other test conditions e.g. room temperature and low temperature.
Cell tests shown that NMN has a certain skin soothing and anti-wrinkle effect. According to the cytotoxicity test, the concentration without obvious cytotoxicity was selected for the next experiment. When the concentration of NMN was 0.003%, the inhibition rate of inflammatory factor NO was 16.86%. When the concentration of NMN was increased to 0.005%, the Pro-collagen 1α1 increase rate was 45.19%.
For efficacy performance, essence sample with 1% NMN has good moisturizing performance after 3 weeks using, and moisture of skin increased by 34.66%. However, compared with blank control, there is no obvious wrinkle improvement effect observed. Maybe we need to continue to monitor the long term performance.