A plant extract enriched in esterified decaffeoylquinic reveals high potency to mitigated vascular dark circles
Podium 59
Presented by: Mathilde Frechet
Introduction:
Dark circles, a major cosmetic concern, impact our face looking and therefore may lower our self-confidence and well-being. They are caused by many etiologic factors including excessive pigmentation, thin lower eyelid skin, shadowing due to skin laxity and loss of skin firmness, periorbital oedema, superficial microvasculature associated or not with a neovascularization. Moreover, as the occurrence of dark circles is a clear indicator of aging and of an unbalanced lifestyle (lack of sleep, stressful life…), people are looking for efficient cosmetic solutions to attenuate them. Using the cutting-edge “Plant Milking technology”, we developed a unique root extract enriched in esterified decaffeoylquinic acids (DCQEs). Indeed, we have shown that DCQEs can acts on the biological pathways leading to dark circles appearance.
Methods:
Ipomoea batatas was used to prepare the DCQE enriched extract “IBEE”. This plant was selected for its capability to naturally synthetize dicaffeoylquinic acids (DCQs). During the extraction process an esterification occurs leading to DCQE formation. Plant cultivation in aeroponic system and nutrient stimulation result in a boost in the roots of DCQs quantity by 50 times. DCQE and DCQ performance was assessed on target binding and collagenases assays. Affimetrix technology allows to decipher the biological effects of IBEE on skin explants. As preliminary results suggest anti-angiogenic and anti dark circles properties for IBEE, we co-developed a 3D vascularized bioprinted model with CTI-Biotech to confirm this hypothesis. Finally, a clinical study enrolling 18 women suffering from vascular dark circles was performed for 7 and 28 days. The clinical efficacy parameters measured were: firmness, vascular network, skin colors (L* and a*) and puffiness (scorage). Skin firmness was assessed with the new innovative prototype device EasyStiff ® developed by Biomeca, a company specialized in “biomechanical field”. This device, based on atomic force microscopy is not available on the market yet. Thanks to the SpectraCam® system a hyperspectral imaging device from Newtone we studied vascular network and skin color parameters (brigthness L* and redness a*).
Results:
As skin cells contain esterases, we confirmed that DCQEs are very stable molecules which are not easily hydrolyzed or metabolized. IBEE thanks to its DCQEs content modulates several genes and growth factors important to treat dark circles. IBEE down-regulates vascular endothelial growth factor receptor signaling pathway (VEGFR1, VEGFR3, VEGFB, PGF, NRF2 and SOX18), and inflammatory response (arachidonic acid metabolites). Using a newly designed 3D bioprinted vascularized skin model, we show that IBEE reduces angiogenesis. Besides, we show that IBEE impacts also the ECM by potently inhibiting collagenase. This activity relies mainly on its content of DCQE, even more efficient than the non-esterifed molecules. The pre-clinical efficacy observed with IBEE was confirmed at the clinical level. The colors of dark circles were quickly improved with IBEE (D7). The under eye area appears brighter and less red showing that dark circles become less visible. The skin laxity is corrected as we observed an increase in dermis firmness from +95% (D7) to +149% (D28). In addition, the vascular arm of dark circles etiology was also targeted by IBEE, through a decrease in blood vessels and an improvement of puffiness.
Discussion and Conclusion:
The cutting edge sustainable technology of Plant Milking, relying on aeropony culture and boosted via nutritive stimulation was applied to Ipomea Batatas roots in order to develop after extraction a performant extract rich in esterified decaffeoylquinic acids.
Indeed, IBEE is an efficient plant extract acting at different levels of dark circles etiology by inhibiting several biological pathways such as angiogenesis, inflammation and extracellular matrix. We discovered that some activities of IBEE are provided by DCQE. Moreover, targeting efficiently, vascular network, a leading parameter in dark circles formation and maintenance, contribute to the improvement of all dark circles features: color, puffiness and sagging.
Dark circles, a major cosmetic concern, impact our face looking and therefore may lower our self-confidence and well-being. They are caused by many etiologic factors including excessive pigmentation, thin lower eyelid skin, shadowing due to skin laxity and loss of skin firmness, periorbital oedema, superficial microvasculature associated or not with a neovascularization. Moreover, as the occurrence of dark circles is a clear indicator of aging and of an unbalanced lifestyle (lack of sleep, stressful life…), people are looking for efficient cosmetic solutions to attenuate them. Using the cutting-edge “Plant Milking technology”, we developed a unique root extract enriched in esterified decaffeoylquinic acids (DCQEs). Indeed, we have shown that DCQEs can acts on the biological pathways leading to dark circles appearance.
Methods:
Ipomoea batatas was used to prepare the DCQE enriched extract “IBEE”. This plant was selected for its capability to naturally synthetize dicaffeoylquinic acids (DCQs). During the extraction process an esterification occurs leading to DCQE formation. Plant cultivation in aeroponic system and nutrient stimulation result in a boost in the roots of DCQs quantity by 50 times. DCQE and DCQ performance was assessed on target binding and collagenases assays. Affimetrix technology allows to decipher the biological effects of IBEE on skin explants. As preliminary results suggest anti-angiogenic and anti dark circles properties for IBEE, we co-developed a 3D vascularized bioprinted model with CTI-Biotech to confirm this hypothesis. Finally, a clinical study enrolling 18 women suffering from vascular dark circles was performed for 7 and 28 days. The clinical efficacy parameters measured were: firmness, vascular network, skin colors (L* and a*) and puffiness (scorage). Skin firmness was assessed with the new innovative prototype device EasyStiff ® developed by Biomeca, a company specialized in “biomechanical field”. This device, based on atomic force microscopy is not available on the market yet. Thanks to the SpectraCam® system a hyperspectral imaging device from Newtone we studied vascular network and skin color parameters (brigthness L* and redness a*).
Results:
As skin cells contain esterases, we confirmed that DCQEs are very stable molecules which are not easily hydrolyzed or metabolized. IBEE thanks to its DCQEs content modulates several genes and growth factors important to treat dark circles. IBEE down-regulates vascular endothelial growth factor receptor signaling pathway (VEGFR1, VEGFR3, VEGFB, PGF, NRF2 and SOX18), and inflammatory response (arachidonic acid metabolites). Using a newly designed 3D bioprinted vascularized skin model, we show that IBEE reduces angiogenesis. Besides, we show that IBEE impacts also the ECM by potently inhibiting collagenase. This activity relies mainly on its content of DCQE, even more efficient than the non-esterifed molecules. The pre-clinical efficacy observed with IBEE was confirmed at the clinical level. The colors of dark circles were quickly improved with IBEE (D7). The under eye area appears brighter and less red showing that dark circles become less visible. The skin laxity is corrected as we observed an increase in dermis firmness from +95% (D7) to +149% (D28). In addition, the vascular arm of dark circles etiology was also targeted by IBEE, through a decrease in blood vessels and an improvement of puffiness.
Discussion and Conclusion:
The cutting edge sustainable technology of Plant Milking, relying on aeropony culture and boosted via nutritive stimulation was applied to Ipomea Batatas roots in order to develop after extraction a performant extract rich in esterified decaffeoylquinic acids.
Indeed, IBEE is an efficient plant extract acting at different levels of dark circles etiology by inhibiting several biological pathways such as angiogenesis, inflammation and extracellular matrix. We discovered that some activities of IBEE are provided by DCQE. Moreover, targeting efficiently, vascular network, a leading parameter in dark circles formation and maintenance, contribute to the improvement of all dark circles features: color, puffiness and sagging.