EVALUATION OF MOISTURIZING, FILM-FORMING AND SENSORY PROPERTIES OF COSMETIC FORMULATIONS CONTAINING TARA GUM AND BRAZILIAN BERRY EXTRACT
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Presented by: Patricia Maia Campos
IIntroduction: The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help the keep skin physiology and protection. The application of natural extracts in cosmetic products, which present a rich composition in polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, minerals, vitamins can improve the efficacy of the products in the improvement of skin hydration and protection against skin changes resulting from the exposome. Among the natural extracts, the Brazilian Berry (Plinia cauliflora) from Brazilian biodiversity has potential for application in cosmetic products because it presents a rich composition in polyphenols (tannins and anthocyanins), which confers antioxidant potential to the fruit extract, and the synergism of the compounds could improve the skin hydration and homeostasis. In addition, the Tara gum, also known as Peruvian carob, is a natural gum obtained by grinding the endosperm of Caesalpinia spinosa seeds, that present film-forming properties and can promote an improvement in the skin barrier function, as well as preventing the contact of external agents with the skin.In this context, the aim of the study was to develop and evaluate the physical-mechanical and sensorial properties as well as the immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation containing Brazilian berry extract and Tara gum by biophysical and skin imaging techniques.
Methods: A gel formulation based on polyacrylate polymer and Caesalpinia spinosa gum natural was developed and added to Plinia cauliflora extract. The formulation containing or not (vehicle) the extract was evaluated in terms of the texture profile and sensorial properties. To evaluate the clinical immediate effects measurements in terms of stratum corneum water content, skin microrelief, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), as well as the analysis of morphological characteristics of the skin were performed on the volar forearm in 10 participants before and after two hours of formulations application. The morphological characteristics of the different skin layers were evaluated by Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - RCM (Vivascope™ 1500®), which uses a laser source with a wavelength of 830 nm and an immersion objective capable of detecting 20 images per second. The images were analyzed in terms of interkeratinocyte reflectance in the granular layer, honeycomb pattern and morphology, skin surface irregularity and thickness of epidermis layers at baseline (t0) and after 2 hours of formulations application. The RCM images were analyzed by a semi quantitative scale (0–3).
Results and Discussion: The addition of Brazilian Berry extract to the studied formulation showed that texture parameters such as firmness and cohesiveness decreased while consistency and viscosity indices did not alternated. In addition, the work of shear parameter significantly decreased when Brazilian Berry extract was added to the formulation, which can be correlated to the improvement of spreadability and touch sensation described in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed immediate effects in the improvement in the skin microrelief due to the reduction of Sew parameter, which represents the number and width of wrinkles, after 2 hours of application of the formulation added to Brazilian Berry extract. In addition, both formulations significantly reduced the TEWL and increased skin hydration when compared to baseline values.
The RCM imaging analysis showed that the Tara Gum presented visible film forming properties due to the increase of brightness on the skin surface and a significant increase in hyperreflective pixels in the stratum corneum. In addition, a significant increase in the interkeratinocites reflectance in the stratum granulosum were observed in the RCM images after 2 hours of application of the formulation containing Brazilian Berry extract and Tara Gum, which suggest a hydration effect that is not limited to the upper skin layers but is also present in the deeper ones.
Conclusion: The use of ingredients obtained from natural sources to develop cosmetic formulations helps obtain more innovative and effective products with good texture and sensory properties. Thus, the Brazilian berry extract can be suggested for application in multifunctional cosmetics for skin care and can add value to the product. In addition, the use of advanced imaging techniques such as RCM is fundamental in order to scientifically prove the benefits of the cosmetics. Finally, the present study has an important contribution since it showed the benefits of a cosmetic product based on natural ingredients with film-forming properties for the skin protection and hydration using innovative evaluation methods.
Methods: A gel formulation based on polyacrylate polymer and Caesalpinia spinosa gum natural was developed and added to Plinia cauliflora extract. The formulation containing or not (vehicle) the extract was evaluated in terms of the texture profile and sensorial properties. To evaluate the clinical immediate effects measurements in terms of stratum corneum water content, skin microrelief, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), as well as the analysis of morphological characteristics of the skin were performed on the volar forearm in 10 participants before and after two hours of formulations application. The morphological characteristics of the different skin layers were evaluated by Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - RCM (Vivascope™ 1500®), which uses a laser source with a wavelength of 830 nm and an immersion objective capable of detecting 20 images per second. The images were analyzed in terms of interkeratinocyte reflectance in the granular layer, honeycomb pattern and morphology, skin surface irregularity and thickness of epidermis layers at baseline (t0) and after 2 hours of formulations application. The RCM images were analyzed by a semi quantitative scale (0–3).
Results and Discussion: The addition of Brazilian Berry extract to the studied formulation showed that texture parameters such as firmness and cohesiveness decreased while consistency and viscosity indices did not alternated. In addition, the work of shear parameter significantly decreased when Brazilian Berry extract was added to the formulation, which can be correlated to the improvement of spreadability and touch sensation described in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed immediate effects in the improvement in the skin microrelief due to the reduction of Sew parameter, which represents the number and width of wrinkles, after 2 hours of application of the formulation added to Brazilian Berry extract. In addition, both formulations significantly reduced the TEWL and increased skin hydration when compared to baseline values.
The RCM imaging analysis showed that the Tara Gum presented visible film forming properties due to the increase of brightness on the skin surface and a significant increase in hyperreflective pixels in the stratum corneum. In addition, a significant increase in the interkeratinocites reflectance in the stratum granulosum were observed in the RCM images after 2 hours of application of the formulation containing Brazilian Berry extract and Tara Gum, which suggest a hydration effect that is not limited to the upper skin layers but is also present in the deeper ones.
Conclusion: The use of ingredients obtained from natural sources to develop cosmetic formulations helps obtain more innovative and effective products with good texture and sensory properties. Thus, the Brazilian berry extract can be suggested for application in multifunctional cosmetics for skin care and can add value to the product. In addition, the use of advanced imaging techniques such as RCM is fundamental in order to scientifically prove the benefits of the cosmetics. Finally, the present study has an important contribution since it showed the benefits of a cosmetic product based on natural ingredients with film-forming properties for the skin protection and hydration using innovative evaluation methods.