Tengkawang (Borneo Illipe) Butter Optimization Study as a Cost Effective Substitution of Cocoa Butter in Body Lotion Formula
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Presented by: Nur Huda Arif Indiarto
Introduction: Emollient and occlusive agent are the important component in topical cosmetic formulation such as lotion. Increasing attention of utilizing a more sustainable and/or more economical emollient to meet concurrent consumer preference has becoming a driving force in seeking a better alternative to meet those demands. One of the most popular natural raw material used as emollient is Cocoa Butter, but the cost of this raw material is quite high. The Tengkawang (Illipe) Butter derived from the fruit of the Shorea stenoptera tree in Southeast Asia (Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Philippines), has similar fatty acid composition to cocoa butter with cheaper cost. The aim of this research is to find the optimal composition of Illipe Butter to substitute the Cocoa Butter in body lotion formula with comparable sensory feel, efficacy, and stability performance.
Methods: The Illipe Butter was incorporated in formulation chassis of Body Lotion to substitute Cocoa Butter starting from 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100% ratio. Formulated lotions then evaluated using initial characterization, accelerated stability test (25οC controlled room, 45οC chamber, 50οC chamber, and glass house under sunlight condition for 1 month), organoleptic, pH, viscosity and globule homogeneity using digital microscope. Finally, occlusive properties were evaluated by in vitro measurement.
Results: Developed formulation resulted in stable lotions even after centrifugation. Lotions emulsion was stable throughout storage duration with similar characteristics profile, regardless of degree of substitution and storage condition. The Illipe Butter substitution resulted in minor changes of pH, viscosity, rheology, and degree of liking of all sensory attributes except for aroma, where high substitution degree can cause negative impact on it and projected to lower overall liking and consumer preference. The Illipe Butter also tends to increase the occlusive properties of lotion. In summary, the optimal composition of Illipe Butter that can be used as Cocoa Butter substitution comfortably up until 50% and 75%, respectively. Although higher substitution is possible stabilitywise, additional considerations are needed to minimize the possible downsides in terms of sensory attributes.
Methods: The Illipe Butter was incorporated in formulation chassis of Body Lotion to substitute Cocoa Butter starting from 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100% ratio. Formulated lotions then evaluated using initial characterization, accelerated stability test (25οC controlled room, 45οC chamber, 50οC chamber, and glass house under sunlight condition for 1 month), organoleptic, pH, viscosity and globule homogeneity using digital microscope. Finally, occlusive properties were evaluated by in vitro measurement.
Results: Developed formulation resulted in stable lotions even after centrifugation. Lotions emulsion was stable throughout storage duration with similar characteristics profile, regardless of degree of substitution and storage condition. The Illipe Butter substitution resulted in minor changes of pH, viscosity, rheology, and degree of liking of all sensory attributes except for aroma, where high substitution degree can cause negative impact on it and projected to lower overall liking and consumer preference. The Illipe Butter also tends to increase the occlusive properties of lotion. In summary, the optimal composition of Illipe Butter that can be used as Cocoa Butter substitution comfortably up until 50% and 75%, respectively. Although higher substitution is possible stabilitywise, additional considerations are needed to minimize the possible downsides in terms of sensory attributes.