Beauty with Environmental Symbiosis — Development of a topical cosmetic solution with moisture permeability control technology which responds to external humidity conditions
25
Presented by: Atsushi Sogabe
Introduction
In recent years, the world has been facing unprecedented global environmental changes, including global warming, localized heavy rain, and extreme high and low temperatures. Among the many environmental factors that affect the skin, humidity is of great interest to consumers. Products are being developed in response to regional characteristics and seasonal changes in relation to humidity. With great improvements in indoor humidity control technologies, skin is increasingly exposed to rapid changes in humidity when considering the humidity gap between outdoor and indoor environments. Similarly, consumers are becoming concerned about the gap between wearing and removing their masks during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Our goal is to develop a technology that mitigates sudden humidity gaps, prevents skin damage, and allows customers to live more actively without worrying about environmental changes. Using the technology attained in this study, we aim to form a barrier that can withstand humidity differences and protect the skin from the resulting negative influences. This can take the form of a cream, emulsion, makeup and similar solutions. As a method to mitigate the humidity gap, we were inspired by traditional Japanese houses. Japanese houses are made of wood, and they are designed to be comfortable during the four seasons without using electricity. General moisture control technologies for houses can be classified into water vapor absorption/desorption and vapor permeability control. Vapor absorption/desorption is widely applied in cosmetics, but its ability is limited to the amount of water that can be absorbed or desorbed. Here, we aim to apply vapor permeability control technology to create fast-responding cosmetics which provide lasting effects and protection for the skin.
Method
Samples were prepared by forming a film of the material or applying it on filter paper. The sample tube was filled with distilled water, covering the upper end with the prepared film. The sample tube was placed in a humidity control chamber at a predetermined temperature. The rate of water volatilization was measured with varying humidity conditions. The water vapor permeability coefficient (moisture permeability) at each humidity was calculated using vapor pressure differences and film thickness to evaluate the humidity dependence of the moisture permeability. We also measured the moisture permeability in response to rapid humidity changes.
To clarify the humidity responsiveness mechanism, the mobility of water molecules was studied using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and Molecular Dynamics (MD) simulation.
Composite films and cosmetic prototypes containing the humidity responsive materials were prepared and the effects of coexisting ingredients were evaluated.
Results and Discussion
As a result of our search for humidity-responsive materials, we found that polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and its derivatives have excellent humidity-responsive properties. The moisture permeability of PVA at low humidity (28℃, 30%RH) is about 50% that at high humidity (28℃, 70%RH), indicating the enhanced occlusive effect of PVA at low humidity conditions. It was also found that PVA's moisture permeability changes quickly in response to external humidity changes, while also maintaining that humidity level.
PVA’s responsiveness to humidity seems related to the change in hydrogen bonding of its hydroxyl groups, based on the previous literature and DSC measurements. As a study of the effect of coexisting ingredients, we have found that specific non-polar oils can improve the performance of the occlusion effect without impairing the humidity response. We expect that appropriate combinations of these non-polar oils and PVA will provide the ideal solution to protect skin under relatively extreme humidity difference conditions.
Conclusion and Contribution
To create a technology that mitigates sudden humidity changes, we have found a suitable material whose moisture permeability adapts in response to a variety of humid conditions. We aim to apply this technology in the preparation of cutting-edge cosmetics which will protect the consumer by minimizing they occlusive effect in higher humidity conditions, and conversely, also enhancing its protection in dry conditions.
In the future, this technology will not only detect changes in humidity, but also changes in the external environment, protecting skin before those changes can have a negative impact, and helping consumers live in comfort, undaunted by changes in their environment.
In recent years, the world has been facing unprecedented global environmental changes, including global warming, localized heavy rain, and extreme high and low temperatures. Among the many environmental factors that affect the skin, humidity is of great interest to consumers. Products are being developed in response to regional characteristics and seasonal changes in relation to humidity. With great improvements in indoor humidity control technologies, skin is increasingly exposed to rapid changes in humidity when considering the humidity gap between outdoor and indoor environments. Similarly, consumers are becoming concerned about the gap between wearing and removing their masks during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Our goal is to develop a technology that mitigates sudden humidity gaps, prevents skin damage, and allows customers to live more actively without worrying about environmental changes. Using the technology attained in this study, we aim to form a barrier that can withstand humidity differences and protect the skin from the resulting negative influences. This can take the form of a cream, emulsion, makeup and similar solutions. As a method to mitigate the humidity gap, we were inspired by traditional Japanese houses. Japanese houses are made of wood, and they are designed to be comfortable during the four seasons without using electricity. General moisture control technologies for houses can be classified into water vapor absorption/desorption and vapor permeability control. Vapor absorption/desorption is widely applied in cosmetics, but its ability is limited to the amount of water that can be absorbed or desorbed. Here, we aim to apply vapor permeability control technology to create fast-responding cosmetics which provide lasting effects and protection for the skin.
Method
Samples were prepared by forming a film of the material or applying it on filter paper. The sample tube was filled with distilled water, covering the upper end with the prepared film. The sample tube was placed in a humidity control chamber at a predetermined temperature. The rate of water volatilization was measured with varying humidity conditions. The water vapor permeability coefficient (moisture permeability) at each humidity was calculated using vapor pressure differences and film thickness to evaluate the humidity dependence of the moisture permeability. We also measured the moisture permeability in response to rapid humidity changes.
To clarify the humidity responsiveness mechanism, the mobility of water molecules was studied using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and Molecular Dynamics (MD) simulation.
Composite films and cosmetic prototypes containing the humidity responsive materials were prepared and the effects of coexisting ingredients were evaluated.
Results and Discussion
As a result of our search for humidity-responsive materials, we found that polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and its derivatives have excellent humidity-responsive properties. The moisture permeability of PVA at low humidity (28℃, 30%RH) is about 50% that at high humidity (28℃, 70%RH), indicating the enhanced occlusive effect of PVA at low humidity conditions. It was also found that PVA's moisture permeability changes quickly in response to external humidity changes, while also maintaining that humidity level.
PVA’s responsiveness to humidity seems related to the change in hydrogen bonding of its hydroxyl groups, based on the previous literature and DSC measurements. As a study of the effect of coexisting ingredients, we have found that specific non-polar oils can improve the performance of the occlusion effect without impairing the humidity response. We expect that appropriate combinations of these non-polar oils and PVA will provide the ideal solution to protect skin under relatively extreme humidity difference conditions.
Conclusion and Contribution
To create a technology that mitigates sudden humidity changes, we have found a suitable material whose moisture permeability adapts in response to a variety of humid conditions. We aim to apply this technology in the preparation of cutting-edge cosmetics which will protect the consumer by minimizing they occlusive effect in higher humidity conditions, and conversely, also enhancing its protection in dry conditions.
In the future, this technology will not only detect changes in humidity, but also changes in the external environment, protecting skin before those changes can have a negative impact, and helping consumers live in comfort, undaunted by changes in their environment.