Effect of Lactobacillus/Phaseolus Coccineus Seed Extract Ferment Filtrate on dry skin.
242
Presented by: Suzuka Kiriu
Dry skin is a skin condition which the water contents in stratum corneum (SC) is reduced, and is said to be induced when skin barrier broken and moisture level in SC degraded by damage caused by ultraviolet rays (UV), inflammation and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Ceramide which are intercellular lipids and natural moisture factor (NMF) are produced by human keratinocytes, and hold water in SC. The skin barrier function also keeps moisture by preventing evaporation of water from SC. For skin barrier working properly, cornified envelope (CE) maturity is essential. So, it is thought that to promote moisturizing effect by increasing NMF production and CE maturation in SC is effective for improving dry skin.
Runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus L.) is perennial plant native to Central America, and the seed is characterized by large black spots on reddish-purple base compared to the same species of common bean. Phaseolus coccineus L. was reported that contains various polyphenols such as isoflavones and anthocyanins, and especially the amount of polyphenols is high among varieties.
In previous study, it was shown that Phaseolus Coccineus Seed Extract (PC) which was developed from the seed of Phaseolus coccineus L. as a raw material for cosmetics promotes production of collagen and improves skin aging caused by UV in human fibroblasts. To enhance the efficacy, new materials, Lactobacillus/Phaseolus Coccineus Seed Extract Ferment Filtrate (PC-FM), was developed by fermenting PC with lactic acid bacteria. In this study, we investigated the effect of PC-FM against moisture retention capacity and barrier function in human keratinocytes.
PC-FM was prepared by fermenting PC which was extracted from Phaseolus coccineus L., using lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus plantarum). To evaluate the effect of PC-FM, we conducted cell viability assay for normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK, KURABO, Japan) treated with PC or PC-FM. Then, we assessed changes in the expression of gene involved in water retention and skin barrier in SC by a quantitative real-time PCR analysis.
The cell viability of NHEKs after treatment with PC or PC-FM was increased in comparison to the untreated control cells in a concentration dependent. Quantitative real-time PCR analysis revealed that both PC and PC-FM promoted the gene expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), hyaluronic acid synthetase-3 (HAS-3), filaggrin (FLG), caspase-14 (CASP14), loricrin (LOR) and transgrutaminase-1 (TGM-1), which are known to be involved in moisturization of the SC. Among them, PC-FM facilitated the expression of FLG, CASP14, LOR and TGM-1 more strongly, and in particularly, FLG, LOR and TGM-1 expression were higher than PC.
NMF is produced by degrading FLG produced in stratum granulosum of the epidermis to the amino acids by the proteolytic enzyme CASP14 in the process of moving to the SC with keratinization, and retains water in SC. CE which is known that covers stratum corneum cells, is mainly composed of involucrin (IVL) and LOR, and these proteins are crosslinked by TGM-1. CE matures with differentiation, then intercellular lipids are regularly arranged on the base of matured CE to form a good skin barrier. My point is, since dry skin is caused by a decrease of water contents and barrier function in SC, it is conceivable that increasing production of FLG, CASP14 and components of CE leads to improvement of dry skin.
In this study, we clarified that PC-FM activated NHEKs and especially promoted the gene expression of FLG and CASP14 which are known as genes involved in NMF production, LOR and TGM-1 which are barrier function related genes. In addition, fermentation PC with Lactobacillus plantarum gave higher effect to PC-FM. Fermentation refers to the process by which microbiota such as lactic acid bacteria and yeast produce metabolites, and the techniques for fermenting plant extracts are common and useful in cosmetic ingredients. Lactic acid bacteria produces substances involved in skin moisturizing by fermenting, such as lactic acid and amino acid, which is thought to have led to increase the effect in this way. These results showed that PC-FM is expected that approach both the water retention capacity and skin barrier function of SC, and work more effectively as a raw material for dry skin when blended into cosmetics.
Runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus L.) is perennial plant native to Central America, and the seed is characterized by large black spots on reddish-purple base compared to the same species of common bean. Phaseolus coccineus L. was reported that contains various polyphenols such as isoflavones and anthocyanins, and especially the amount of polyphenols is high among varieties.
In previous study, it was shown that Phaseolus Coccineus Seed Extract (PC) which was developed from the seed of Phaseolus coccineus L. as a raw material for cosmetics promotes production of collagen and improves skin aging caused by UV in human fibroblasts. To enhance the efficacy, new materials, Lactobacillus/Phaseolus Coccineus Seed Extract Ferment Filtrate (PC-FM), was developed by fermenting PC with lactic acid bacteria. In this study, we investigated the effect of PC-FM against moisture retention capacity and barrier function in human keratinocytes.
PC-FM was prepared by fermenting PC which was extracted from Phaseolus coccineus L., using lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus plantarum). To evaluate the effect of PC-FM, we conducted cell viability assay for normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK, KURABO, Japan) treated with PC or PC-FM. Then, we assessed changes in the expression of gene involved in water retention and skin barrier in SC by a quantitative real-time PCR analysis.
The cell viability of NHEKs after treatment with PC or PC-FM was increased in comparison to the untreated control cells in a concentration dependent. Quantitative real-time PCR analysis revealed that both PC and PC-FM promoted the gene expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), hyaluronic acid synthetase-3 (HAS-3), filaggrin (FLG), caspase-14 (CASP14), loricrin (LOR) and transgrutaminase-1 (TGM-1), which are known to be involved in moisturization of the SC. Among them, PC-FM facilitated the expression of FLG, CASP14, LOR and TGM-1 more strongly, and in particularly, FLG, LOR and TGM-1 expression were higher than PC.
NMF is produced by degrading FLG produced in stratum granulosum of the epidermis to the amino acids by the proteolytic enzyme CASP14 in the process of moving to the SC with keratinization, and retains water in SC. CE which is known that covers stratum corneum cells, is mainly composed of involucrin (IVL) and LOR, and these proteins are crosslinked by TGM-1. CE matures with differentiation, then intercellular lipids are regularly arranged on the base of matured CE to form a good skin barrier. My point is, since dry skin is caused by a decrease of water contents and barrier function in SC, it is conceivable that increasing production of FLG, CASP14 and components of CE leads to improvement of dry skin.
In this study, we clarified that PC-FM activated NHEKs and especially promoted the gene expression of FLG and CASP14 which are known as genes involved in NMF production, LOR and TGM-1 which are barrier function related genes. In addition, fermentation PC with Lactobacillus plantarum gave higher effect to PC-FM. Fermentation refers to the process by which microbiota such as lactic acid bacteria and yeast produce metabolites, and the techniques for fermenting plant extracts are common and useful in cosmetic ingredients. Lactic acid bacteria produces substances involved in skin moisturizing by fermenting, such as lactic acid and amino acid, which is thought to have led to increase the effect in this way. These results showed that PC-FM is expected that approach both the water retention capacity and skin barrier function of SC, and work more effectively as a raw material for dry skin when blended into cosmetics.