Adaptogen Properties of Indian Sandalwood Oil in Skin Protection
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Presented by: Dhanushka Hettiarachchi
Introduction
A timeless and sacred tree, Indian Sandalwood has journeyed through Indigenous cultures and ancient empires into our world today. Known as the “King of woods” this precious species has a long and sacred history. Indian Sandalwood oil (ISO) is the essential oil from the aromatic heartwood of the Santal Album tree, which has been used as a traditional medicine or to calm the mind with its distinctly woody scent. A star in fine fragrance, Indian Sandalwood’s creamy and woody base notes complement nearly every fragrance family, while its fixative properties provide longevity of the fragrance on skin. The myriad of skin benefits of ISO are attributed to its major constituents, alpha and beta santalol.
Modern lifestyle faces number of exposomes such as pollution, solar and digital blue light which trigger oxidation of skin tissue. Skin oxidation is a cascade of reactions resulting ageing, pigmentation, and inflammation. Series of studies conducted to investigate and establish the adaptogen properties of ISO in protecting skin by reduced oxidation when exposed to environmental exposomes.
Methodology
ISO was tested on keratinocytes stimulated by cigarette smoke, blue light at 412nm and 450nm. Generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) was measured by oxygen radical fluorescent assay. Human skin explants treated with ISO were exposed to ozone and cigarette smoke to determine the oxidative stress and its subsequent effects on collagen degeneration by measuring MMP-1 enzyme. Investigations were further extended to an intra-individual comparative clinical study in which a simple formulation containing ISO was tested topically on the back of volunteers who were subjected to blue light and pollution stimulation. The protective effect of ISO was determined by levels of squalene mono-hydroperoxide assessed in sebum samples collected from treated and untreated areas.
Results
ISO was found to reduce the reactive oxygen species by 34% than the positive control α-tocopherol in human keratinocytes exposed to blue light and pollution. Collagen degenerating MMP1 enzyme was inhibited by 70% when IOS was introduced to human skin explants exposed to pollution. Clinical study has reported a significant reduction of squalene mono-hydroperoxide with topical application of ISO at 1 and 10% concentrations.
Discussions and Conclusion
ISO was found to act as an adaptogen in protecting the skin from oxidative stress and subsequent damage to skin. Moreover, ISO was found to be as effective and sometimes superior to the well-established topical antioxidant α-tocopherol. This effect was reported in vitro experiments and confirmed in a clinical study in healthy volunteers. ISO is traditionally used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetic and personal care formulations: it is now to be regarded as a potent adaptogen with clear benefits on skin health.
A timeless and sacred tree, Indian Sandalwood has journeyed through Indigenous cultures and ancient empires into our world today. Known as the “King of woods” this precious species has a long and sacred history. Indian Sandalwood oil (ISO) is the essential oil from the aromatic heartwood of the Santal Album tree, which has been used as a traditional medicine or to calm the mind with its distinctly woody scent. A star in fine fragrance, Indian Sandalwood’s creamy and woody base notes complement nearly every fragrance family, while its fixative properties provide longevity of the fragrance on skin. The myriad of skin benefits of ISO are attributed to its major constituents, alpha and beta santalol.
Modern lifestyle faces number of exposomes such as pollution, solar and digital blue light which trigger oxidation of skin tissue. Skin oxidation is a cascade of reactions resulting ageing, pigmentation, and inflammation. Series of studies conducted to investigate and establish the adaptogen properties of ISO in protecting skin by reduced oxidation when exposed to environmental exposomes.
Methodology
ISO was tested on keratinocytes stimulated by cigarette smoke, blue light at 412nm and 450nm. Generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) was measured by oxygen radical fluorescent assay. Human skin explants treated with ISO were exposed to ozone and cigarette smoke to determine the oxidative stress and its subsequent effects on collagen degeneration by measuring MMP-1 enzyme. Investigations were further extended to an intra-individual comparative clinical study in which a simple formulation containing ISO was tested topically on the back of volunteers who were subjected to blue light and pollution stimulation. The protective effect of ISO was determined by levels of squalene mono-hydroperoxide assessed in sebum samples collected from treated and untreated areas.
Results
ISO was found to reduce the reactive oxygen species by 34% than the positive control α-tocopherol in human keratinocytes exposed to blue light and pollution. Collagen degenerating MMP1 enzyme was inhibited by 70% when IOS was introduced to human skin explants exposed to pollution. Clinical study has reported a significant reduction of squalene mono-hydroperoxide with topical application of ISO at 1 and 10% concentrations.
Discussions and Conclusion
ISO was found to act as an adaptogen in protecting the skin from oxidative stress and subsequent damage to skin. Moreover, ISO was found to be as effective and sometimes superior to the well-established topical antioxidant α-tocopherol. This effect was reported in vitro experiments and confirmed in a clinical study in healthy volunteers. ISO is traditionally used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetic and personal care formulations: it is now to be regarded as a potent adaptogen with clear benefits on skin health.