Preservation in sheet masks: Biocellulose as polymeric matrix to avoid preservative release into the skin.
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Presented by: Paola Perugini
Biodegradable material such as biocellulose allows to have a lower environmental impact than the classical polymers used in cosmetic and medical field, in addition to all the beneficial properties of this material for the skin, such as for example a deeply moisturizing and soothing effect. The focus of this work was to develop a new face mask based on biocellulose sheet embedded with cosmetic formulation, in which the polymeric matrix can act as an adjusting system in order to avoid the release of preservative into the skin.
Two preservatives were chosen for this study: Levulinic Acid falling into the category of "non-preservative preservatives", while Phenoxyethanol is a classic chemical preservative. The choice of using Levulinic Acid permits to fulfill the claim "Preservative free", which is very popular in the cosmetic field.
Specific adsorption studies aimed at determining the capability of the two preservatives to bind the polymer, were set up by evaluating zeta potential variation of biocellulose tissue. Subsequently, quantitative analyzes, aimed at evaluating the quantity of preservative bound and released from the masks, were carried out using an HPLC technique. A different analytical method was obviously pursued for each of the two preservatives.
The final goal was to evaluate which of the two preservatives showed the desired behaviour, that is being adsorbed by the mask, but then not released on the skin during the use, so as not to interfere with microbial skin ecosystem. The in vivo study was carried out on 5 selected volunteers.
In conclusion, it is therefore possible to state that Levulinic Acid has proved to be an ideal candidate for the formulation of biocellulose masks because itis able to bind to biocellulose masks without being released on the skin. This work opens the door to a very promising use of this new system in formulation field.
Two preservatives were chosen for this study: Levulinic Acid falling into the category of "non-preservative preservatives", while Phenoxyethanol is a classic chemical preservative. The choice of using Levulinic Acid permits to fulfill the claim "Preservative free", which is very popular in the cosmetic field.
Specific adsorption studies aimed at determining the capability of the two preservatives to bind the polymer, were set up by evaluating zeta potential variation of biocellulose tissue. Subsequently, quantitative analyzes, aimed at evaluating the quantity of preservative bound and released from the masks, were carried out using an HPLC technique. A different analytical method was obviously pursued for each of the two preservatives.
The final goal was to evaluate which of the two preservatives showed the desired behaviour, that is being adsorbed by the mask, but then not released on the skin during the use, so as not to interfere with microbial skin ecosystem. The in vivo study was carried out on 5 selected volunteers.
In conclusion, it is therefore possible to state that Levulinic Acid has proved to be an ideal candidate for the formulation of biocellulose masks because itis able to bind to biocellulose masks without being released on the skin. This work opens the door to a very promising use of this new system in formulation field.