Skin-improving function of disaccharide polysulfate, with increased effects on epidermal moisturizing and dermal elastic factors, and decreased effects on pigmentation factors
Podium 52
Presented by: Zheng Zhou
Introduction
Heparinoid, a mucopolysaccharide polysulfate, has a molecular weight of more than 5,000 and cannot penetrate healthy stratum corneum. Therefore, in medicine, it is exclusively used for the treatment of inflammatory diseases, progressive palmar keratoderma, sebum deficiency (senile xeroderma), chilblains, hypertrophic scars and keloids, to moisturize and promote blood circulation.
Purpose
We tested the skin barrier function, moisturizing function, brightening function, elasticity function and human efficacy of disaccharide polysulfate with a molecular weight of less than 1,000, which can penetrate healthy stratum corneum.
Methods and Results
We measured the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of a three-dimensional human epidermis model cultured for three days after topical application of disaccharide polysulfate, and observed the effect on the suppression of TEWL. The mRNA levels of the proteins involved in intercellular lipids and moisture retention were measured using RT-qPCR, and an increase in the mRNA of the ATP binding cassette subfamily A member 12 (ABCA12), which transports lipids into stratum granulosum, was confirmed. There was also an increase in the mRNA of filaggrin (FLG), which is involved in NMF generation. In addition, there was an increase in the mRNA levels of caspase-14 (CASP14), calpain-1 (CAPN1) and bleomycin hydrolyase (BLMH), which are involved in the degradation of FLG. Furthermore, disaccharide polysulfate was found to inhibit the elongation of dendritic processes of cultured human melanocytes and to increase type 1 collagen and fibrillin 1 in cultured human fibroblasts. Based on the results of these cultured cell system experiments, disaccharide polysulfate is believed to have excellent moisturizing, brightening and skin elasticity promoting effects. The concentration of disaccharide polysulfate was set by measuring the stratum corneum water content on the flexed side of the forearm of healthy adults at high-frequency conduction, and disaccharide polysulfate was found to increase stratum corneum water content at lower concentrations than heparinoid. In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind, parallel comparative study, subjects with low stratum corneum water content applied a lotion and emulsion containing disaccharide polysulfate to their faces twice per day, morning and evening, for 8 weeks. The results showed that disaccharide polysulfate increased stratum corneum water content and skin elasticity and decreased both the TEWL and melanin index. In addition, improvements in skin texture, skin roughness, pore size and darkness, and skin translucence were observed.
Discussion and Conclusion
These results suggest that, in addition to the moisturizing effect of cosmetics containing disaccharide polysulfate, these cosmetics act on the epidermis to increase the factors involved in moisturizing, decrease the factors involved in pigmentation, and increase collagen fibres and microfibrils, thereby exerting an effect on dry, dull and inelastic skin.
Heparinoid, a mucopolysaccharide polysulfate, has a molecular weight of more than 5,000 and cannot penetrate healthy stratum corneum. Therefore, in medicine, it is exclusively used for the treatment of inflammatory diseases, progressive palmar keratoderma, sebum deficiency (senile xeroderma), chilblains, hypertrophic scars and keloids, to moisturize and promote blood circulation.
Purpose
We tested the skin barrier function, moisturizing function, brightening function, elasticity function and human efficacy of disaccharide polysulfate with a molecular weight of less than 1,000, which can penetrate healthy stratum corneum.
Methods and Results
We measured the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of a three-dimensional human epidermis model cultured for three days after topical application of disaccharide polysulfate, and observed the effect on the suppression of TEWL. The mRNA levels of the proteins involved in intercellular lipids and moisture retention were measured using RT-qPCR, and an increase in the mRNA of the ATP binding cassette subfamily A member 12 (ABCA12), which transports lipids into stratum granulosum, was confirmed. There was also an increase in the mRNA of filaggrin (FLG), which is involved in NMF generation. In addition, there was an increase in the mRNA levels of caspase-14 (CASP14), calpain-1 (CAPN1) and bleomycin hydrolyase (BLMH), which are involved in the degradation of FLG. Furthermore, disaccharide polysulfate was found to inhibit the elongation of dendritic processes of cultured human melanocytes and to increase type 1 collagen and fibrillin 1 in cultured human fibroblasts. Based on the results of these cultured cell system experiments, disaccharide polysulfate is believed to have excellent moisturizing, brightening and skin elasticity promoting effects. The concentration of disaccharide polysulfate was set by measuring the stratum corneum water content on the flexed side of the forearm of healthy adults at high-frequency conduction, and disaccharide polysulfate was found to increase stratum corneum water content at lower concentrations than heparinoid. In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind, parallel comparative study, subjects with low stratum corneum water content applied a lotion and emulsion containing disaccharide polysulfate to their faces twice per day, morning and evening, for 8 weeks. The results showed that disaccharide polysulfate increased stratum corneum water content and skin elasticity and decreased both the TEWL and melanin index. In addition, improvements in skin texture, skin roughness, pore size and darkness, and skin translucence were observed.
Discussion and Conclusion
These results suggest that, in addition to the moisturizing effect of cosmetics containing disaccharide polysulfate, these cosmetics act on the epidermis to increase the factors involved in moisturizing, decrease the factors involved in pigmentation, and increase collagen fibres and microfibrils, thereby exerting an effect on dry, dull and inelastic skin.