Black Soldier Larvae Oil in Cosmetic Emulsions
594
Presented by: Krastanka Marinova
Introduction:
The term entomocosmetics was first introduced by the American company Insect beauty LLC, which partners with the Thai government and the University of Chiang Mai , Oricga [1]. The first Thai line of entomocosmetics has a patented process of extracting oil from a black soldier fly. Entomo means "insect" - so entomocosmetics include innovative skincare products made from insect oils and chitosan. Insect oil cosmetics are a new approach to skincare that also helps create a more resilient planet. Black soldier fly larvae oil (BSFLO) is very rich in lauric acid, and its fatty acid profile is similar to that of palm kernel oil and to coconut oil [2]. Therefore, it can be offered as an alternative to these vegetable oils. More than 80% of world palm oil yields come from Malaysia and Indonesia, which has caused serious deforestation of equatorial and tropical rainforests. Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) has been actively acting to “making sustainable palm oil the norm” [3].
BSFLO is obtained by pressing and drying the larval phase of the life cycle of the Hermetia insect illucens (Black soldier fly) of the family Stratiomyidae. Fly larvae feed on biological waste which they successfully process, so ecologically clean circular oil production is realized. Most companies that currently raise the black soldier fly and its larvae produce high-quality protein used in animal feed as well as aquaculture and fish feed. There are also data on the production of biofuels - biodiesel from fly larvae. Very few attempts have been made to use insect oil to produce value-added products.
BSFLO has been shown to contain one of the highest concentrations of lauric acid and antimicrobial MCT fatty acid [4]. In the human body, the triacylglycerol of lauric acid is converted to monolaurin, which is antiviral, antibacterial and antiprotozoal glyceride.
Fats and oils are commonly used in cosmetics, where they are a major component of skin care creams. Triglycerides usually act as emollients that soften the skin. Indirectly, they will also moisturize the skin, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Purpose of the article:
Our work aims at presenting exemplary formulations of a cosmetic product – hand cream, containing black soldier fly larvae oil. The formulation is compared as physico-chemical and organoleptic properties to products containing coconut or palm kernel oil in order to evaluate the potential of alternative usage of BSFLO.
Methods:
Crude larvae oil is purified in five stages: degumming, dehumidification, neutralization, bleaching, and deodorization. Oil composition was determined afterward by utilizing chromatographic and spectral methods.
Cosmetic emulsions are prepared by standard high-energy homogenization.
Physico-chemical characterization includes rheology characterization, stability testing, drop size distribution determination. Organoleptic characterization is performed after different periods of product ageing.
Results and discussion:
Method for oil purification is developed and validated. The purified BSFLO is successfully implemented in hand creams which properties compare well with those containing coconut or palm kernel oil. The problem with the unpleasant odor, reported in the literature have been successfully solved. The purified black soldier fly larvae oil shows very good characteristics and is fully applicable to cosmetics.
Conclusion:
We have successfully developed and applied a purification procedure for black soldier fly larvae oil to obtain an oil suitable for cosmetic products. Sample cosmetic formulas containing different oils compare well evidencing the good quality of the formulations containing BSFLO compared products with palm kernel oil or coconut oil.
References:
1. https://entomobelle.com/
2. Verheyen, G.R. et al., Glycine-acyl Surfactants Prepared from Black Soldier Fly Fat, Coconut Oil and Palm Kernel Oil, Current Green Chemistry, 2020, 7, 239-248. https://doi.org/10.2174/2213346107999200424084626
3. https://rspo.org/
4. Müller, A., Wolf, D. and Gutzeit, H.O., The black soldier fly, Hermetia illucens – a promising source for sustainable production of proteins, lipids and bioactive substances, Zeitschrift für Naturforschung C, 2017, 72(9-10) 351-363. https://doi.org/10.1515/znc-2017-0030.
The term entomocosmetics was first introduced by the American company Insect beauty LLC, which partners with the Thai government and the University of Chiang Mai , Oricga [1]. The first Thai line of entomocosmetics has a patented process of extracting oil from a black soldier fly. Entomo means "insect" - so entomocosmetics include innovative skincare products made from insect oils and chitosan. Insect oil cosmetics are a new approach to skincare that also helps create a more resilient planet. Black soldier fly larvae oil (BSFLO) is very rich in lauric acid, and its fatty acid profile is similar to that of palm kernel oil and to coconut oil [2]. Therefore, it can be offered as an alternative to these vegetable oils. More than 80% of world palm oil yields come from Malaysia and Indonesia, which has caused serious deforestation of equatorial and tropical rainforests. Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) has been actively acting to “making sustainable palm oil the norm” [3].
BSFLO is obtained by pressing and drying the larval phase of the life cycle of the Hermetia insect illucens (Black soldier fly) of the family Stratiomyidae. Fly larvae feed on biological waste which they successfully process, so ecologically clean circular oil production is realized. Most companies that currently raise the black soldier fly and its larvae produce high-quality protein used in animal feed as well as aquaculture and fish feed. There are also data on the production of biofuels - biodiesel from fly larvae. Very few attempts have been made to use insect oil to produce value-added products.
BSFLO has been shown to contain one of the highest concentrations of lauric acid and antimicrobial MCT fatty acid [4]. In the human body, the triacylglycerol of lauric acid is converted to monolaurin, which is antiviral, antibacterial and antiprotozoal glyceride.
Fats and oils are commonly used in cosmetics, where they are a major component of skin care creams. Triglycerides usually act as emollients that soften the skin. Indirectly, they will also moisturize the skin, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Purpose of the article:
Our work aims at presenting exemplary formulations of a cosmetic product – hand cream, containing black soldier fly larvae oil. The formulation is compared as physico-chemical and organoleptic properties to products containing coconut or palm kernel oil in order to evaluate the potential of alternative usage of BSFLO.
Methods:
Crude larvae oil is purified in five stages: degumming, dehumidification, neutralization, bleaching, and deodorization. Oil composition was determined afterward by utilizing chromatographic and spectral methods.
Cosmetic emulsions are prepared by standard high-energy homogenization.
Physico-chemical characterization includes rheology characterization, stability testing, drop size distribution determination. Organoleptic characterization is performed after different periods of product ageing.
Results and discussion:
Method for oil purification is developed and validated. The purified BSFLO is successfully implemented in hand creams which properties compare well with those containing coconut or palm kernel oil. The problem with the unpleasant odor, reported in the literature have been successfully solved. The purified black soldier fly larvae oil shows very good characteristics and is fully applicable to cosmetics.
Conclusion:
We have successfully developed and applied a purification procedure for black soldier fly larvae oil to obtain an oil suitable for cosmetic products. Sample cosmetic formulas containing different oils compare well evidencing the good quality of the formulations containing BSFLO compared products with palm kernel oil or coconut oil.
References:
1. https://entomobelle.com/
2. Verheyen, G.R. et al., Glycine-acyl Surfactants Prepared from Black Soldier Fly Fat, Coconut Oil and Palm Kernel Oil, Current Green Chemistry, 2020, 7, 239-248. https://doi.org/10.2174/2213346107999200424084626
3. https://rspo.org/
4. Müller, A., Wolf, D. and Gutzeit, H.O., The black soldier fly, Hermetia illucens – a promising source for sustainable production of proteins, lipids and bioactive substances, Zeitschrift für Naturforschung C, 2017, 72(9-10) 351-363. https://doi.org/10.1515/znc-2017-0030.