In vivo performance of a social and environmental sustainable blend of Brazilian Kaolin
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Presented by: Maria Celia Reimberg
Introduction
Clays have been used since ancient times for medicinal and beauty purposes all around the world. Clays are used in emulsifiers, thickeners and lubricants, gastrointestinal protectors, laxatives, and dermatological protectors. Depending of their geological origins, clays have specific mineral compositions such as montmorillonite, kaolinite, beidelite, nontronite, illite. In Brazil, kaolin made of kaolinite mineral is widely found. In Amazon, the primary kaolinite was formed along millions of years under tropical climate conditions, bringing a special characteristic of the material suitable for cosmetic applications. Clays originated from volcanic soil are colored and rich in minerals (available in South of Brazil) while clays derived from the Amazonian lateritic soil are also rich in minerals and organic matter. Combining these different sources of clays opens the way to the creation of an infinite variety of kaolinite mineral clays with amazing cosmetic and aesthetic properties. Nevertheless, clays as natural resources need to be used in a sustainable way. For that, sustainable programs and certifications providing guidelines for the soil and environment recovery and social responsibility such as Fair for Life and For Life certifications were set up. The aim of this work was to demonstrate new skin benefits and multifunctional properties of Brazilian clays containing kaolinite, "the kaolin" for skin care and makeup applications.
Methods used:
The kaolin incorporated at 10% in a classical foundation formula was tested in two clinical studies. Instrumental measurements were hydration (Corneometer™), trans epidermal water loss TEWL (Tewameter™), skin sebum content (Sebumeter™), and skin firmness (Cutometer™). Eight (8) panelists applied in the forearms, the kaolin foundation or the Placebo during 4 hours then the foundation was removed and TEWL and hydration were measured. Six (6) panelists applied in hemi face, the kaolin foundation or the Placebo (during 7 consecutive days), then sebum regulation and skin tensing properties of kaolin were assessed. All evaluations were compared to the basal level the initial skin´s condition (T0) and to the Placebo control. Statistical analysis was evaluated through Prism Graph 9.2.
Results Obtained
The study showed that kaolin incorporated in a foundation improves TEWL a well known skin barrier function parameter. Indeed, in the kaolin group, TEWL was significantly reduced by 21% when compared to the basal level (T0) while Placebo presented only a decrease in TEWL of 11%. Moreover, as a common sense, use of clays is usually conditioned to dehydration of the skin. However, it was observed that kaolin clays had different properties from other clays. Indeed, the skin hydration level was not modified or altered after 4 hours of use. In repetitive face foundation application (7 consecutive days), kaolin formula reveals very interesting properties, such as a significant skin tensing effect, as measured by the decrease of R0 parameter by -13%. This effect was observed in all participants. A decrease in R0 parameter characterizes a tensing effect with a firmer skin. Finally, even with the constant use of the kaolinite clays, it was observed a maintenance of the skin homeostasis, without impact on skin sebum production or removal of sebum, proving that there was not a rebound effect as a result of constant use.
Discussion
The biological beneficial effects observed with the Brazilian kaolin in our clinical studies related to TEWL, skin hydration, sebum and skin tensing effect might be explained by its kaolinite and phyllosilicate structures which provide small surface area (10 – 20 m2/g, less than 10µm) that brings an interaction with skin surface mainly through its mineral composition.
This process can impact positively also the skin NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factors) and keep the skin well hydrated. Finally, even with the continuous and repeated use in a foundation, Brazilian kaolin provides a balanced way to keep the skin homeostasis.
Conclusion
The positive attributes such as improvement of skin barrier function, hydration, tensing effect, skin homeostasis, showed that Brazilian kaolin can be used for skin care, hair care and makeup applications. Brazilian kaolin provides rheological and color stability, good sensorial profile for multifunctional formulations and can bring benefits to the mineral make up, color cosmetic products, face products, besides sunscreens, BB and CC creams.
Clays have been used since ancient times for medicinal and beauty purposes all around the world. Clays are used in emulsifiers, thickeners and lubricants, gastrointestinal protectors, laxatives, and dermatological protectors. Depending of their geological origins, clays have specific mineral compositions such as montmorillonite, kaolinite, beidelite, nontronite, illite. In Brazil, kaolin made of kaolinite mineral is widely found. In Amazon, the primary kaolinite was formed along millions of years under tropical climate conditions, bringing a special characteristic of the material suitable for cosmetic applications. Clays originated from volcanic soil are colored and rich in minerals (available in South of Brazil) while clays derived from the Amazonian lateritic soil are also rich in minerals and organic matter. Combining these different sources of clays opens the way to the creation of an infinite variety of kaolinite mineral clays with amazing cosmetic and aesthetic properties. Nevertheless, clays as natural resources need to be used in a sustainable way. For that, sustainable programs and certifications providing guidelines for the soil and environment recovery and social responsibility such as Fair for Life and For Life certifications were set up. The aim of this work was to demonstrate new skin benefits and multifunctional properties of Brazilian clays containing kaolinite, "the kaolin" for skin care and makeup applications.
Methods used:
The kaolin incorporated at 10% in a classical foundation formula was tested in two clinical studies. Instrumental measurements were hydration (Corneometer™), trans epidermal water loss TEWL (Tewameter™), skin sebum content (Sebumeter™), and skin firmness (Cutometer™). Eight (8) panelists applied in the forearms, the kaolin foundation or the Placebo during 4 hours then the foundation was removed and TEWL and hydration were measured. Six (6) panelists applied in hemi face, the kaolin foundation or the Placebo (during 7 consecutive days), then sebum regulation and skin tensing properties of kaolin were assessed. All evaluations were compared to the basal level the initial skin´s condition (T0) and to the Placebo control. Statistical analysis was evaluated through Prism Graph 9.2.
Results Obtained
The study showed that kaolin incorporated in a foundation improves TEWL a well known skin barrier function parameter. Indeed, in the kaolin group, TEWL was significantly reduced by 21% when compared to the basal level (T0) while Placebo presented only a decrease in TEWL of 11%. Moreover, as a common sense, use of clays is usually conditioned to dehydration of the skin. However, it was observed that kaolin clays had different properties from other clays. Indeed, the skin hydration level was not modified or altered after 4 hours of use. In repetitive face foundation application (7 consecutive days), kaolin formula reveals very interesting properties, such as a significant skin tensing effect, as measured by the decrease of R0 parameter by -13%. This effect was observed in all participants. A decrease in R0 parameter characterizes a tensing effect with a firmer skin. Finally, even with the constant use of the kaolinite clays, it was observed a maintenance of the skin homeostasis, without impact on skin sebum production or removal of sebum, proving that there was not a rebound effect as a result of constant use.
Discussion
The biological beneficial effects observed with the Brazilian kaolin in our clinical studies related to TEWL, skin hydration, sebum and skin tensing effect might be explained by its kaolinite and phyllosilicate structures which provide small surface area (10 – 20 m2/g, less than 10µm) that brings an interaction with skin surface mainly through its mineral composition.
This process can impact positively also the skin NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factors) and keep the skin well hydrated. Finally, even with the continuous and repeated use in a foundation, Brazilian kaolin provides a balanced way to keep the skin homeostasis.
Conclusion
The positive attributes such as improvement of skin barrier function, hydration, tensing effect, skin homeostasis, showed that Brazilian kaolin can be used for skin care, hair care and makeup applications. Brazilian kaolin provides rheological and color stability, good sensorial profile for multifunctional formulations and can bring benefits to the mineral make up, color cosmetic products, face products, besides sunscreens, BB and CC creams.