A review of common European plants as active skincare ingredients
386
Presented by: Jaana Ailus
Introduction
Consumer interest for naturally derived cosmetic ingredients and additives is growing. Customer attitudes tend to favour green and natural products, and the increasing awareness of the environmental impact cosmetics may have. Naturally derived ingredients are often perceived by the consumer as more sustainable and environmentally friendly.
It is therefore prudent for raw materials suppliers to meet this demand and come up with new and innovative ingredients. Due to the unsolved climate crisis, using plant extracts derived from cultivated crops should be avoided, if a more sustainable and environmentally conscious option is available.
One such option is to find active ingredients from plants perceived as unwanted, of low value, or as “weeds”. Many such plants can provide skin conditioning benefits when used in cosmetic products, and many undervalued plants can be studied for this purpose.
Purpose
The purpose of this review article is to address different European plants that could possess potential to soothe the skin when used topically. This review will look at their historical use, pharmacognosy, and possible current use in skincare. This review will also look at specific polyphenols that are prevalent in the plants and their role in cosmetic skincare.
Methods
Articles from various Dermatological and Botanical journals were reviewed, as well as resources written about ethnobotanical tradition in Finland and the Nordics.
The plants that were looked at were Achillea millefolium (yarrow), Epilobium angustifolium (fireweed), Equisetum arvense (field horsetail), Lythrum salicaria (purple loosestrife), Plantago major (greater plantain) and Silybum marianum (milk thistle). These five plants were chosen because all have been used traditionally for skin ailments in the Nordics.
Results
It is clear that the constituents of each plant are specific to skin soothing, and some of the constituents are as follows: Apigenin, found in A. millefolium, L. salicaria and P. major. Luteolin, found in A. millefolium, L. salicaria and P. major. Ursolic acid, found in E. angustifolium and P. major. Silymarin, found in S. marianum.
Discussion
Using plant extracts in skincare is nothing new. Marketing claims are often based around exotic botanical ingredients. With a bigger emphasis on sustainability, the exoticism of far-fetched raw materials seems to be trend that may soon pass. It would be great to see some of these less exotic and glamourous plants used instead for skin soothing actives. They clearly contain many of the same constituents that are beneficial to skin, and grow in abundance in Europe. They do not compete with food crops, and they do not need irrigation of cultivation to grow. Therefore they make the ideal skincare ingredients, however, their efficacy needs to be proven.
Conclusion
The plants covered in this review are what one might consider weeds, and their cultivation has not been abundant. As hardy plants that do not compete with food crops for cultivated land, their potential for development into more refined cosmetic ingredients remains largely untapped.
Consumer interest for naturally derived cosmetic ingredients and additives is growing. Customer attitudes tend to favour green and natural products, and the increasing awareness of the environmental impact cosmetics may have. Naturally derived ingredients are often perceived by the consumer as more sustainable and environmentally friendly.
It is therefore prudent for raw materials suppliers to meet this demand and come up with new and innovative ingredients. Due to the unsolved climate crisis, using plant extracts derived from cultivated crops should be avoided, if a more sustainable and environmentally conscious option is available.
One such option is to find active ingredients from plants perceived as unwanted, of low value, or as “weeds”. Many such plants can provide skin conditioning benefits when used in cosmetic products, and many undervalued plants can be studied for this purpose.
Purpose
The purpose of this review article is to address different European plants that could possess potential to soothe the skin when used topically. This review will look at their historical use, pharmacognosy, and possible current use in skincare. This review will also look at specific polyphenols that are prevalent in the plants and their role in cosmetic skincare.
Methods
Articles from various Dermatological and Botanical journals were reviewed, as well as resources written about ethnobotanical tradition in Finland and the Nordics.
The plants that were looked at were Achillea millefolium (yarrow), Epilobium angustifolium (fireweed), Equisetum arvense (field horsetail), Lythrum salicaria (purple loosestrife), Plantago major (greater plantain) and Silybum marianum (milk thistle). These five plants were chosen because all have been used traditionally for skin ailments in the Nordics.
Results
It is clear that the constituents of each plant are specific to skin soothing, and some of the constituents are as follows: Apigenin, found in A. millefolium, L. salicaria and P. major. Luteolin, found in A. millefolium, L. salicaria and P. major. Ursolic acid, found in E. angustifolium and P. major. Silymarin, found in S. marianum.
Discussion
Using plant extracts in skincare is nothing new. Marketing claims are often based around exotic botanical ingredients. With a bigger emphasis on sustainability, the exoticism of far-fetched raw materials seems to be trend that may soon pass. It would be great to see some of these less exotic and glamourous plants used instead for skin soothing actives. They clearly contain many of the same constituents that are beneficial to skin, and grow in abundance in Europe. They do not compete with food crops, and they do not need irrigation of cultivation to grow. Therefore they make the ideal skincare ingredients, however, their efficacy needs to be proven.
Conclusion
The plants covered in this review are what one might consider weeds, and their cultivation has not been abundant. As hardy plants that do not compete with food crops for cultivated land, their potential for development into more refined cosmetic ingredients remains largely untapped.