Replacing synthetic texturizing polymers with natural raw materials in cosmetic formulations
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Presented by: Giovanni Tafuro
Introduction: The increasing concern about our ecosystem and the recent restrictions on microplastics proposed by the European commission is forcing the cosmetic industries to find new solutions to replace synthetic raw materials, conventionally used in cosmetic products as rheological modifiers and texturizers. Researchers identified in the polymers of natural origin a viable biodegradable and sustainable alternative to these ingredients accused of having a bad environmental impact.
Objective: The aim of this work was to evaluate the possibility to insert some natural texturizing polymers, recently proposed on the market, in cosmetic skin-care formulas instead of the most used synthetic ones, namely nylon-12 and polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), without losing their stability characteristics and applicative performances that have an impact on consumers’ acceptability.
Materials: Two synthetic and nine natural texturizing raw materials were selected, i.e., X (Nylon-12), Y (PMMA), A (Zea mays starch, Polyvinyl alcohol, Glycerin), B (Distarch phosphate), C (Maltodextrin), D (Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour), E (Cellulose), F (Calcinated kaolin) G (Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Titanium Dioxide Silica) H (Mica) and I (Talc).
Methods: These raw materials were incorporated in oil/in water emulsions and analyzed by means of rheological and texture analyses. The rheological tests, performed both in continuous and oscillatory flow conditions using a rotational rheometer, allowed characterizing the samples’ flow behavior and viscoelastic properties. The texture parameters, such as firmness, consistency, adhesiveness, and stringiness, were measured through an immersion/de-immersion test conducted with a Texture Analyzer. The morphology of the emulsions was evaluated by means of optical microscopy.
Results and Discussion: The raw materials A, C, G, and H were found to have similar texturizing properties to nylon-12 and PMMA. These natural polymers have then been inserted in finished products in order to evaluate the effective possibility of using them as a substitute for synthetic ones, obtaining physically stable systems. In particular, we used the starch-based polymer A in an acne-prone skin product, where it has proved to have great stabilizing capacity, leading to elastic systems with good film-forming properties, which showed the same rheological behavior conferred by nylon-12 and PMMA.
Conclusion: Rheological and texture analyses proved to be two complementary analytical techniques useful to study the physico-mechanical characteristics of cosmetic formulas, helping formulators to easily evaluate the contribution of new raw materials when they are faced with the need to reformulate cosmetic products in a green and sustainable perspective.
Objective: The aim of this work was to evaluate the possibility to insert some natural texturizing polymers, recently proposed on the market, in cosmetic skin-care formulas instead of the most used synthetic ones, namely nylon-12 and polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), without losing their stability characteristics and applicative performances that have an impact on consumers’ acceptability.
Materials: Two synthetic and nine natural texturizing raw materials were selected, i.e., X (Nylon-12), Y (PMMA), A (Zea mays starch, Polyvinyl alcohol, Glycerin), B (Distarch phosphate), C (Maltodextrin), D (Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour), E (Cellulose), F (Calcinated kaolin) G (Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Titanium Dioxide Silica) H (Mica) and I (Talc).
Methods: These raw materials were incorporated in oil/in water emulsions and analyzed by means of rheological and texture analyses. The rheological tests, performed both in continuous and oscillatory flow conditions using a rotational rheometer, allowed characterizing the samples’ flow behavior and viscoelastic properties. The texture parameters, such as firmness, consistency, adhesiveness, and stringiness, were measured through an immersion/de-immersion test conducted with a Texture Analyzer. The morphology of the emulsions was evaluated by means of optical microscopy.
Results and Discussion: The raw materials A, C, G, and H were found to have similar texturizing properties to nylon-12 and PMMA. These natural polymers have then been inserted in finished products in order to evaluate the effective possibility of using them as a substitute for synthetic ones, obtaining physically stable systems. In particular, we used the starch-based polymer A in an acne-prone skin product, where it has proved to have great stabilizing capacity, leading to elastic systems with good film-forming properties, which showed the same rheological behavior conferred by nylon-12 and PMMA.
Conclusion: Rheological and texture analyses proved to be two complementary analytical techniques useful to study the physico-mechanical characteristics of cosmetic formulas, helping formulators to easily evaluate the contribution of new raw materials when they are faced with the need to reformulate cosmetic products in a green and sustainable perspective.