16:20 - 17:30
New emulsion type liquid lip formulation with gloss and stain effect using shear stress-induced phase separation phenomenon
492
Presented by: Heemuk Oh
Heemuk Oh, So Yeon Park, Jun Bae Lee
COSMAX, Seongnam-si
Recently, “emulsion type liquid lip” is getting attention in the color cosmetics market for lips. Emulsion type liquid lip is a type of lip color cosmetic formulation that has recently gained popularity. This formulation can create unique colors and textures.
However, there has been a limitation in that gloss and stain, one of the important properties of lip color cosmetics, has a trade-off relationship with each other in this formulation. The goal of this study is to develop an emulsion type liquid lip formulation that simultaneously enhances the stain effect and the gloss effect by using the phase separation phenomenon of the formulation. The phase separation of the formulation is caused by the shear stress. Shear stress with the appropriate strength can be easily created by users when they rub their lips. Therefore, users can easily create the phase separation phenomenon.
This formulation does not contain relatively high viscosity and high refractive index oil for gloss effect, unlike conventional formulations. Low viscosity, low density oils were applied to this formulation instead of it. In addition, we adopted unusual methods of controlling the pH and salinity of the formulation to induce a strong stain effect. As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the developed formulation had a superior stain effect than the conventional formulation and similar glossiness with the conventional formulation.
Several techniques were used to analyze the cause of the phase behavior of the formulation and to evaluate its effect. Rheological measurements were performed using a rotational rheometer. In addition, the physical and chemical properties of the experimental formulations were analyzed by moisture quantification, confocal laser fluorescence microscopy, gloss measurement, and others. Based on the results of this study in the future, it is expected that emulsion type liquid lip formulation can be developed more systematically.