Creating a Streamlined and Inclusive Shade Palette with SPF for the USA and the UK
271
Presented by: Maitree Kanjilal
INTRODUCTION
The demographics of the world’s population are continually evolving. Companies marketing color cosmetics for face may update their color palette over time and the data introduced within this body of work can be used for new product introductions. The majority of color products in the face category within the marketplace are currently divided by skin tone rather than by age or other factors.The demographics of the USA in 2021 were: 60.1% White or Caucasian, 18.5% Hispanic or Latino, 13.4% Black or African American, 5.9% Asian, 1.3% American Indian/Alaska Native, 0.2% Native Hawaiian, 0.6% Multiracial or other ethnic group. In the UK, the ethnic distribution is approximately: 87.1% White or Caucasian, 7% Asian, 3% Black/African/Caribbean, 2.9% Multiracial or other ethnic group.
PURPOSE
Many brands offer a large number of foundation shades, up to and even sometimes exceeding 50. However, such a wide number of SKUs may not be practical or economical for smaller companies to manufacture. In-store shelf space is also limited whether it be mass market or department stores.
The purpose of our study was to create an SPF foundation palette that would include skin types I-VI with varying undertones. Oftentimes the focus is entirely on making products deep enough without considering which undertones help make the shade a perfect match. The proposed shade palette would address a wide range of skin tones, however, the number of SKUs would be formulated to be considerably smaller by optimizing the individual shades and color values.
METHODOLOGY
We focused on formulating shades based upon the existing CIE L.a.b. (CIELAB) or LCH (CIELCh) data for skin tones available from cosmetic trade journal articles and books. In addition to these values, we learned from our previous work in this area that opacity and transparency were key factors for acceptability of shades amongst diverse consumers. We formulated with nano and non-nano titanium dioxide and zinc oxide and transparent & pigmentary iron oxides to address the criteria. We also included ultramarine pigments, blue and violet, which we had studied previously.
There are a number of well-designed and existing studies that show L.a.b. values for different skin types. The L.a.b. data from these types of studies were used for color matching when the methodologies showed a high degree of similarity between them.
RESULTS
We were able to develop a W/O emulsion base that was inclusive and met our objective. These shades were aligned to mathematically fit the skin tone values that we set up and agreed upon through the use of design of experiment software. When properly configured the software presents formulations requiring only very small adjustments to meet the intended targets for ethnicity. We measured and evaluated the foundation on skin and also on Leneta charts and artist paper substrates as drawdowns.
DISCUSSION
In developing this foundation make-up it was important to understand the variation in skin color and possible cultural influences. In one of the referenced studies for Asian skin, it is noted that preferred base makeup products usually were found to be of slightly brighter color than the actual skin tone, i.e., people may inherently want their skin to be slightly lighter. We developed foundation shades with the need for each ethnicity in mind.
Other studies have shown that hyperpigmentation in the people of color community is more common because of the over production of melanin that is already found within the epidermis. Products with adequate SPF can offer protection from skin cancer for all, but also helps to prevent hyperpigmentation. Sunscreen is the single most important factor in improving most causes of hyperpigmentation.
CONCLUSION
We were able to streamline a foundation palette that could be adapted quickly over time through the use of design of experiment software. Our analysis of the data and methodology previously available and when coupled with our experience in color matching of skin tones proved invaluable for this project. We believe that our more economical approach to consolidating a foundation line can assist formulators when resources or marketing opportunities may be limited.
The demographics of the world’s population are continually evolving. Companies marketing color cosmetics for face may update their color palette over time and the data introduced within this body of work can be used for new product introductions. The majority of color products in the face category within the marketplace are currently divided by skin tone rather than by age or other factors.The demographics of the USA in 2021 were: 60.1% White or Caucasian, 18.5% Hispanic or Latino, 13.4% Black or African American, 5.9% Asian, 1.3% American Indian/Alaska Native, 0.2% Native Hawaiian, 0.6% Multiracial or other ethnic group. In the UK, the ethnic distribution is approximately: 87.1% White or Caucasian, 7% Asian, 3% Black/African/Caribbean, 2.9% Multiracial or other ethnic group.
PURPOSE
Many brands offer a large number of foundation shades, up to and even sometimes exceeding 50. However, such a wide number of SKUs may not be practical or economical for smaller companies to manufacture. In-store shelf space is also limited whether it be mass market or department stores.
The purpose of our study was to create an SPF foundation palette that would include skin types I-VI with varying undertones. Oftentimes the focus is entirely on making products deep enough without considering which undertones help make the shade a perfect match. The proposed shade palette would address a wide range of skin tones, however, the number of SKUs would be formulated to be considerably smaller by optimizing the individual shades and color values.
METHODOLOGY
We focused on formulating shades based upon the existing CIE L.a.b. (CIELAB) or LCH (CIELCh) data for skin tones available from cosmetic trade journal articles and books. In addition to these values, we learned from our previous work in this area that opacity and transparency were key factors for acceptability of shades amongst diverse consumers. We formulated with nano and non-nano titanium dioxide and zinc oxide and transparent & pigmentary iron oxides to address the criteria. We also included ultramarine pigments, blue and violet, which we had studied previously.
There are a number of well-designed and existing studies that show L.a.b. values for different skin types. The L.a.b. data from these types of studies were used for color matching when the methodologies showed a high degree of similarity between them.
RESULTS
We were able to develop a W/O emulsion base that was inclusive and met our objective. These shades were aligned to mathematically fit the skin tone values that we set up and agreed upon through the use of design of experiment software. When properly configured the software presents formulations requiring only very small adjustments to meet the intended targets for ethnicity. We measured and evaluated the foundation on skin and also on Leneta charts and artist paper substrates as drawdowns.
DISCUSSION
In developing this foundation make-up it was important to understand the variation in skin color and possible cultural influences. In one of the referenced studies for Asian skin, it is noted that preferred base makeup products usually were found to be of slightly brighter color than the actual skin tone, i.e., people may inherently want their skin to be slightly lighter. We developed foundation shades with the need for each ethnicity in mind.
Other studies have shown that hyperpigmentation in the people of color community is more common because of the over production of melanin that is already found within the epidermis. Products with adequate SPF can offer protection from skin cancer for all, but also helps to prevent hyperpigmentation. Sunscreen is the single most important factor in improving most causes of hyperpigmentation.
CONCLUSION
We were able to streamline a foundation palette that could be adapted quickly over time through the use of design of experiment software. Our analysis of the data and methodology previously available and when coupled with our experience in color matching of skin tones proved invaluable for this project. We believe that our more economical approach to consolidating a foundation line can assist formulators when resources or marketing opportunities may be limited.