14:00 - 15:50
Tue-Hall 1-2A
Hall 1
Podium Session
Transformation of visible light: a new perspective for skin care application.
Podium 12
Presented by: Julie Leignadier
Julie Leignadier 1, Audrey Manière 2, Joan Attia 1
1 Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Toulouse
2 Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Massy
Introduction
The sunlight is a source of energy enables various chemical reactions in the living world, of which the most common is the photosynthesis. Indeed, by absorbing the sunlight, photosynthesis produces a lot of essential molecules for the energy of the cells plant.
Otherwise, the absorption of light can also lead to an emission of another kind of light by conversion effect, commonly named fluorescence. A certain number of living creatures, from bacteria to insects, sharks and birds, is able to light up and glow in the dark. These biofluorescent animals absorb the short-wavelength electromagnetic radiation and reemit at longer wavelengths, resulting in a glow with brilliant fluorescent. This phenomenon is widespread among animals and can be caused by several different proteins, pigments, metabolites and chemical reactions (Lamb J.Y, 2020).
Using a biomimetic approach, these two concepts were implemented to the design of an innovant active ingredient for skin care application. A mixture a fluorochromes (Mix Fl) was created to convert harmful wavelengths of visible light -blue light- into higher beneficial wavelengths to offer well-being benefits for the skin.
The aim of this work is to demonstrate how the fluorescent properties and light transformation of formulated Mix Fl could protect from DNA oxidation once applied directly on the skin.

Methods
First, the absorption and emission spectrum of Mix Fl were recorded by means of a UV-Vis spectrophometer and a spectrofluorometer in an acrylate-based gel.

Further, the emission ability of Mix Fl was illustrated directly on volunteers by exposing to high energy wavelength their skin treated with Mix Fl or placebo on hemiface.

Then, skin benefits were assessed by a quantification of DNA oxidation on human skin explants daily irradiated with blue light and treated every two days of Mix Fl cream or placebo. After 8 days, 8-OHdG expression was evaluated by immunostaining.
Results

Formulated into a gel, Mix Fl exhibited fluorescence properties absorbing the light between 400 and 500nm and reemitting higher wavelengths. Indeed, exposed to a wavelength of 455 nm, Mix Fl converted the monochromatic light into the range of 500-600 nm leading to an orange light emission. Once applied on face volunteers’ skin, a bright and shiny zone appears in the face area, confirming the conversion effect in clinical conditions.

The light absorption between 400nm and 500nm induced a skin protection that was highlighted by the DNA oxidation reduction. After 8 days of irradiation, the application of Mix FI reduced DNA oxidation by 69% compared to the placebo condition, while the latter increased 8-OHdG by 118% compared to the unirradiated condition.

Perspective/Discussion

In the present study, we shown that Mix FI is a new active ingredient able to convert a monochromatic light in a narrow wavelength range. As a result, we observed not only a skin protection but also a benefit due to the reemitted light.

As distinct from the monochromatic illumination, broadening the excitation spectrum of the Mix FI ingredient would allow the re emission in a wider range of wavelengths. Consequently, the Mix FI ingredient could transform the visible light and open multiple opportunities for the skin health by targeting specific biological mechanisms. Thus, like photosynthesis, the transformation of visible light would lead the activation of different biological processes in the skin through photobiomodulation.