11:20 - 12:40
Tue-Park Suites-B
Park Suites
Poster Session
Novel delivery system for reducing water consumption by altering hair wash frequency
518
Presented by: Renata Raffin
Renata Raffin 1, Cristieli Kopp 1, Mariana Bianchin 1, Aude Lemoine 2, Danielle Jamieson 2, Farahdia Edouard 3
1 Croda do Brasil, inventiva, Porto Alegre
2 Croda Europe, Cowick
3 Croda Inc, Plainsboro
Background information
Our hair care routines are evolving to meet the demands of the modern world, with consumers becoming more mindful of how their choices impact the environment around them. Consumers are seeking opportunities to adapt their hair wash routines to incorporate more convenient and sustainable solutions, particularly those who have adopted intensive hair wash routines to combat scalp oiliness.

Objective
The aim of this study was to develop a novel encapsulation system to efficiently deliver actives to the hair and scalp and provide instant sebum reduction.

Methods
For the delivery system development, a combination of actives known to bring balance to hair and scalp was used: Tea Tree, Sunflower, Rosemary and Pumpkin Seed. A lipid nanoparticle was prepared by mixing wall components and homogenizing them with an aqueous surfactant solution. Several parameters were evaluated: Particle size, measured by light diffraction; the release profile, by dialysis; and skin permeation, evaluated using the Episkin model.
Clinical tests were performed using objective and subjective data from 20 panellists, that used shampoo and conditioner containing either the encapsulated system at 1% w/w, equivalent concentrations of the un-encapsulated actives or no actives as the placebo treatment.
To determine the reduction in scalp oiliness, the panellists refrained from washing their hair for two days prior to the evaluation, at which point their initial scalp oiliness was measured via Sebumeter. The next day, the panellists washed their hair and their scalp oiliness was measured again. After seven consecutive days of use, panellists had their scalp oiliness measured another time and were asked to complete a questionnaire about their perceptions of their hair.
An additional salon evaluation was conducted to determine consumer perception of their ability to extend hair wash cycles. Panellists refrained from washing their hair for two days, before washing their hair at pre-determined intervals with the allocated treatment; 2, 3, 5 and 7 day wash cycles were subsequently tested.

Results and discussions
Nanoparticle suspension was successfully obtained. Product was white, homogeneous, and without visible particles. Mean particle size was 189±9 nm.
Regarding the release profile, the actives contained within the nanoparticles were released at a slower rate compared to the free actives with a half-life of release of 136 min and 58 min respectively.
Using Episkin, the inserts were placed above the release medium and samples were collected after 1, 3 and 6h. At all three points, the amount permeated from the nanoparticles was 3x higher than free actives.
For oiliness reduction, panellists using the encapsulated actives presented a reduction of 47.4% in oiliness measured by Sebumeter; compared to 25.3% for the free actives and 23.0% for the placebo after one application. After 7 days of use, oiliness reduction was 61.2% for the encapsulated actives; 18.1% for the free actives and 10.4% for the placebo. For the subjective efficacy, 100% of the panellists said there was a great improvement in oiliness sensation, compared to 72% for the free actives. An improvement in shine, dry feel and smoothness was also noticed for the group that used nanoparticles.
Regarding the wash cycle routine evaluation, at each interval, the panellists were asked to complete a questionnaire to determine whether they had wanted to wash their hair. After three days of no hair washing, 70% of panellists using the nanoparticle regime indicated that they did not feel the need to wash their hair, compared to 80% of panellists using the placebo regime who felt that they did need to wash their hair.
After seven days without washing their hair, panellists were asked about their ideal hair wash routine. The wash frequency of panellists using the placebo largely remained unchanged, while it has been reduced for the panellists using the nanoparticles regime. The results indicate an average reduction in wash cycles of 29.4% when using the new delivery system.

Conclusion
A new delivery system was developed intended to reduce hair wash cycles. The encapsulated actives presented slow release and increased permeation. Clinically, the proposed system can reduce scalp oiliness and alter the hair wash routine. Calculating the water saving, it is possible to reduce water consumption by 25.9L every wash and 129,400,000L per tonne of the encapsulated system used (and 229.4 ton of CO2) in new hair wash routine.