11:20 - 12:40
Tue-Park Suites-B
Park Suites
Poster Session
The Hair Tensegrity: applying an architecture-inspired concept to hair care.
459
Presented by: Òscar Expósito
Òscar Expósito
Vytrus Biotech, Terrassa
Did you know that the hair structure is a holistic unit where hair scalp, follicle and shaft must be considered as a whole structure in hair care?

Did you know that the scalp is the hidden essential in hair biology and is responsible for the nourishing, biology, and mechanical behaviours of the pilosebaceous unit?

Did you know that all parts are interconnected and the whole hair system can be revitalized based on the new concept of hair tensegrity?

The term “tensegrity” comes from architecture and is coined from the contraction of the terms “tensional” and “integrity” (components under compression inside a network in continuous tension). The Tensegrity explains how changes applied to an area will also exert effects at a distance because everything is interconnected.

For instance, a skyscraper must have a good tensegrity (strong enough, but also flexible enough to resist the wind at high altitude). Following this analogy, a healthy hair must have a good tensegrity (strong enough, but also flexible enough to be manageable, soft, easy to comb and maintaining its natural movement).

This integral vision of tensegrity has been transferred to the hair structure, launching the new cosmetic approach of TrichoTensegrity, appealing to the importance of the scalp and the hair structure and its influence on hair mechanical properties and biology behavior. Hair shaft and the scalp are intimately interconnected as a continuum and each part is interdependent from the others.

Because everything is interconnected (cells, tissue and extracellular space) the evolution of the multifunctionality is envisaged. Biotensegrity emerges as the evolution of multifunctional, where it is possible to exert a holistic effect in the complete structure by affecting its individual parts.

Following the latest advances in the Vytrus Biotech Technology Platform, it is presented a new generation of Phyto-Lipidic Fractions, an active from plant stem cell cultures specially designed for its use as structural strengthener of hair and scalp following the tensegrity principles: the first Encapsulated Cellular Oil (ECO).

Through a driven growth factor control development process, it has been possible to identify, produce and release unique structural lipid fractions (glycolipids and phospholipids) and structural membrane proteins (lipoproteins, glycoproteins, and other transmembrane proteins) from the inside of plant stem cell membranes.

This ECO have a unique lipo-protein composition, analogous of the hair and scalp structural identities that will work synergistically, and it has been demonstrated that it reinforces the hair and scalp tensegrity through a triple axis of action:
  • Protect from deterioration
  • Refill and restructure
  • Rebuilding the internal structure to enhance beauty
Several innovative in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo tests have demonstrated a multi-activity and holistic approach in the field of hair care:
  • In vitro tests:
    • Antioxidant, anti-glycation and anti-inflammatory effect
    • Boosting collagen type III gene expression effect analysed by quantitative Reverse Transcriptase PCR
    • Increase of fibroblasts proliferation (regenerative properties)
  • Ex vivo tests:
    • Hair protection from UVA-induced carbonylation and high temperatures (230ºC)
    • Protection of hair colour in dyed hair
    • Hair nourishing: delivery into hair cortex analysed by confocal microscopy
    • Hair diameter increase measured by micro-camera
    • Hair shaft strengthening (Tensile test)
  • In vivo tests:
    • Enhanced softness, volume, shine, and hydration (trichologist analysis)
    • Scalp redness and dandruff reduction (trichologist analysis analysed by micro-camera photography)
    • Deformability / Stiffness of the scalp (internal structure strengthening of the scalp)
    • Scalp hydration increase
    • Strengthening of hair bulb anchoring in the scalp through first time in vivo claimed structural anchoring proteoglycans (Versican and Collagen 17A).