Unique combination of saccharides and mushroom extract for efficient heat and humidity protection in hair fibers
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Presented by: Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz
Introduction
Human hair is subjected to different procedures daily, which damage the fibers, compromising many of their properties such as softness, alignment, porosity, and water permeability. One of the most common steps in hair care routines is the use of heat-styling tools, which can cause severe damage to the fibers as a result of frequent use, high temperatures, and long direct contact with the heat source, impacting in the sensory perceived. Among interviewed consumers from China, Germany, USA, France and Brazil, 84% somewhat agree or strongly agree that flat iron and hair dryer damage the hair, and almost 20% perceived physical treatments (e.g., hot iron, blow dryer) as causes for their hair issues. In Brazil, almost 30% of the consumers are often concerned about excess of frizz/electrostaticity as well as rebellious/difficult to comb/flyways effects, characteristics that are often observed in hair oftentimes styled by heat tools. Furthermore, the hair styling provided by them is based on the rearrangement of hydrogen bonds present in the hair structure, making it vulnerable to high humidity conditions.
Aim of the paper
The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of BIO5768, a unique and specific combination of saccharides and mushroom extract, by targeting hair protection against heat and excessive humidity.
Methods
The film-forming properties of the composition were evaluated by comparing the treated (2% w/w solution) and non-treated hair tresses using fluorescence microscopy and swelling tests. To test its efficacy in hair protection and styling, BIO5768 was added to shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in formulations. The results of these treatments were compared with the same bases containing silicone benchmarks (amodimethicone; dimethicone and dimethiconol), and a placebo set (with no active ingredients added). Swelling test was performed to evaluate the interaction of hair fibers with water. Heat protection was evaluated by protein loss assessment (BCA Protein assay) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The straightening effect and maintenance under high-humidity conditions (70% RH) were evaluated using an alignment coefficient calculated by RUMBA (Bossa Nova Vision).
Results
Compared with non-treated fibers, fibers treated with 2% BIO5768 solution showed a decrease in fluorescence levels and diameter variation after being submerged in water for 180s, demonstrating film formation on the hair surface. Tresses treated with shampoo and conditioner formulations containing 1.0% BIO5768 also showed lesser diameter variation than placebo ones and those treated with amodimethicone, preventing excessive water absorption, and consequently providing higher humidity protection of 53% and 87%, compared with that of placebo and silicone, respectively. Regarding heat protection, the results obtained in the protein loss assessment showed that treatment with leave-in formulations containing 2.0% BIO5768 achieved 23x more thermal protection than placebo treatment and performed similarly to formulations with 2.0% silicone benchmarks. Likewise, DSC results showed a similar thermal protection profile in which tresses treated with 2% BIO5768 in leave-in treatment were better protected against thermal damage than those treated with 2.0% dimethicone and dimethiconol leave-in treatment, and showed comparable protection to those treated with 2.0% amodimethicone leave-in. Considering styling benefits, after the first flat iron pass, tresses treated with 2.0% BIO5768 in the leave-in treatment had a 51% higher alignment coefficient than those treated with the placebo formulation, showing a similar effect to the silicone benchmarks. In addition, after 24h in high humidity conditions, BIO5768 treated tresses presented 42% higher straightening maintenance effect than the ones treated with dimethicone and dimethiconol formulations at same concentration.
Discussion and conclusion
In summary, BIO5768 forms a substantive film on the hair fiber surface, providing protection from humidity and excessive water uptake, as well as significant protection against heat, comparable to the most commonly used silicones. Furthermore, BIO5768 helps to achieve and maintain the desired hair styling shape over time and in a high-humidity environment.
Human hair is subjected to different procedures daily, which damage the fibers, compromising many of their properties such as softness, alignment, porosity, and water permeability. One of the most common steps in hair care routines is the use of heat-styling tools, which can cause severe damage to the fibers as a result of frequent use, high temperatures, and long direct contact with the heat source, impacting in the sensory perceived. Among interviewed consumers from China, Germany, USA, France and Brazil, 84% somewhat agree or strongly agree that flat iron and hair dryer damage the hair, and almost 20% perceived physical treatments (e.g., hot iron, blow dryer) as causes for their hair issues. In Brazil, almost 30% of the consumers are often concerned about excess of frizz/electrostaticity as well as rebellious/difficult to comb/flyways effects, characteristics that are often observed in hair oftentimes styled by heat tools. Furthermore, the hair styling provided by them is based on the rearrangement of hydrogen bonds present in the hair structure, making it vulnerable to high humidity conditions.
Aim of the paper
The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of BIO5768, a unique and specific combination of saccharides and mushroom extract, by targeting hair protection against heat and excessive humidity.
Methods
The film-forming properties of the composition were evaluated by comparing the treated (2% w/w solution) and non-treated hair tresses using fluorescence microscopy and swelling tests. To test its efficacy in hair protection and styling, BIO5768 was added to shampoo, conditioner, and leave-in formulations. The results of these treatments were compared with the same bases containing silicone benchmarks (amodimethicone; dimethicone and dimethiconol), and a placebo set (with no active ingredients added). Swelling test was performed to evaluate the interaction of hair fibers with water. Heat protection was evaluated by protein loss assessment (BCA Protein assay) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The straightening effect and maintenance under high-humidity conditions (70% RH) were evaluated using an alignment coefficient calculated by RUMBA (Bossa Nova Vision).
Results
Compared with non-treated fibers, fibers treated with 2% BIO5768 solution showed a decrease in fluorescence levels and diameter variation after being submerged in water for 180s, demonstrating film formation on the hair surface. Tresses treated with shampoo and conditioner formulations containing 1.0% BIO5768 also showed lesser diameter variation than placebo ones and those treated with amodimethicone, preventing excessive water absorption, and consequently providing higher humidity protection of 53% and 87%, compared with that of placebo and silicone, respectively. Regarding heat protection, the results obtained in the protein loss assessment showed that treatment with leave-in formulations containing 2.0% BIO5768 achieved 23x more thermal protection than placebo treatment and performed similarly to formulations with 2.0% silicone benchmarks. Likewise, DSC results showed a similar thermal protection profile in which tresses treated with 2% BIO5768 in leave-in treatment were better protected against thermal damage than those treated with 2.0% dimethicone and dimethiconol leave-in treatment, and showed comparable protection to those treated with 2.0% amodimethicone leave-in. Considering styling benefits, after the first flat iron pass, tresses treated with 2.0% BIO5768 in the leave-in treatment had a 51% higher alignment coefficient than those treated with the placebo formulation, showing a similar effect to the silicone benchmarks. In addition, after 24h in high humidity conditions, BIO5768 treated tresses presented 42% higher straightening maintenance effect than the ones treated with dimethicone and dimethiconol formulations at same concentration.
Discussion and conclusion
In summary, BIO5768 forms a substantive film on the hair fiber surface, providing protection from humidity and excessive water uptake, as well as significant protection against heat, comparable to the most commonly used silicones. Furthermore, BIO5768 helps to achieve and maintain the desired hair styling shape over time and in a high-humidity environment.