Valorization of fruits and vegetables coproducts to produce natural organic active waters for cosmetic formulation
Podium 20
Presented by: Lionel MUNIGLIA
Introduction
Waterless formulas become more and more attractive to consumers who see water as a useless ingredient, without activity on the skin. Formulators are thus looking for sustainable alternatives. Solid cosmetics become popular because they don’t contain water. But when considering the energy used to dry all the powders, the environmental imprint is not that good.
On the other hand, food waste is a global issue, causing hunger in poor countries while 1/3 of total food grown globally is wasted, representing 1.3 billion tons per year. In addition, 8 to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions out of a total of 24% emitted by agri-food activities on a global scale would be caused by uneaten food. There is an emergency in valorizing this food waste to decrease the global carbon imprint.
To answer those two topics, thanks to its patented enzymatic extraction eco-process, Biolie has developed vegetable waters, natural aqueous active extracts from organic fruits and vegetables coproduct to substitute water in cosmetic formulations.
Methods
Biolie has applied its patented enzymatic extraction eco-process to organic fruits and vegetables coproduct. Vegan, food-grade, non-GMO enzymes digest the grinded plants, open the cells and release the water and molecules of interest under controlled temperature.
A first extraction study has been performed to compare extraction with or without enzymes. In this study fruits or vegetables are grinded and poured into a reactor with or without enzymes. The mixture is stirred for 4 hours at 40-50°C. After extraction, the content of the reactor is centrifuged and the aqueous fraction is filtered and analyzed.
Then, activity studies have been performed on vegetable waters to prove their antioxidant activity and microbiome friendliness.
First, vegetable waters have been compared to Vitamin C with DPPH method to evaluate their antioxidant properties.
Then, vegetable waters have been tested on face skin microbiome. Skin microbiome of 44 healthy participants with normal skin has been analyzed to identify the most representative species of bacteria on the face skin. On this basis, a microbiota model composed of 3 genera (cutibacterium, staphylococcus and corynebacterium) and 31 species was developed, allowing to predict the impact of a compound on the bacterial populations present on the skin. On this study, each bacteria type has been cultivated individually with different concentrations of vegetable waters and compared to control (cultivated in water). After 24, 48 and 72h, the effect of vegetable waters on bacteria is compared to control to confirm if the ingredient has:
Results
The extraction study showed that the addition of enzymes decreases the amount of solid residue (by 55% for zucchini extraction), increases the amount of aqueous extract and improves the quantity of active molecules in the aqueous fraction (increase in dry matter, amount of polyphenols and sugars, from 30 to 50% for zucchini extraction).
DPPH test showed similar activities between vegetable waters and Vitamin C. At a dose of 25%, pear extract inhibits 86% of free radicals, protecting the skin from environmental pollution.
After 24h, at a dose of 20 to 40%, cucumber and zucchini extracts had a positive or no effect on the bacteria populations, showing a prebiotic or microbiome friendly activity for face skin.
Discussion
Fruits and vegetables waters are extracted from food and/or agriculture coproducts, valorizing those raw materials, improving farmers income and decreasing food waste and carbon imprint.
With enzymatic extraction, “binded” water from inside the cells is released with all the natural surrounding nutrients. All hydrophilic molecules are extracted together at the same time, in only one step, saving time and energy and increasing the extraction yield to valorize as much raw material as possible and improve coproduct valorization.
Extraction solid residues are valorized into compost in-house to avoid carbon imprint on transporting and transforming those “wastes”.
Conclusion
In a biorefinery concept, Biolie is valorizing agriculture and food coproducts to produce cosmetic ingredients. Vegetable waters are multifunctional ingredients that can be used from 20 to 80% in formulations to replace water and bring activities. Vegetable waters are organic certified sustainable ingredients in the trend of upcycling and clean beauty
Waterless formulas become more and more attractive to consumers who see water as a useless ingredient, without activity on the skin. Formulators are thus looking for sustainable alternatives. Solid cosmetics become popular because they don’t contain water. But when considering the energy used to dry all the powders, the environmental imprint is not that good.
On the other hand, food waste is a global issue, causing hunger in poor countries while 1/3 of total food grown globally is wasted, representing 1.3 billion tons per year. In addition, 8 to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions out of a total of 24% emitted by agri-food activities on a global scale would be caused by uneaten food. There is an emergency in valorizing this food waste to decrease the global carbon imprint.
To answer those two topics, thanks to its patented enzymatic extraction eco-process, Biolie has developed vegetable waters, natural aqueous active extracts from organic fruits and vegetables coproduct to substitute water in cosmetic formulations.
Methods
Biolie has applied its patented enzymatic extraction eco-process to organic fruits and vegetables coproduct. Vegan, food-grade, non-GMO enzymes digest the grinded plants, open the cells and release the water and molecules of interest under controlled temperature.
A first extraction study has been performed to compare extraction with or without enzymes. In this study fruits or vegetables are grinded and poured into a reactor with or without enzymes. The mixture is stirred for 4 hours at 40-50°C. After extraction, the content of the reactor is centrifuged and the aqueous fraction is filtered and analyzed.
Then, activity studies have been performed on vegetable waters to prove their antioxidant activity and microbiome friendliness.
First, vegetable waters have been compared to Vitamin C with DPPH method to evaluate their antioxidant properties.
Then, vegetable waters have been tested on face skin microbiome. Skin microbiome of 44 healthy participants with normal skin has been analyzed to identify the most representative species of bacteria on the face skin. On this basis, a microbiota model composed of 3 genera (cutibacterium, staphylococcus and corynebacterium) and 31 species was developed, allowing to predict the impact of a compound on the bacterial populations present on the skin. On this study, each bacteria type has been cultivated individually with different concentrations of vegetable waters and compared to control (cultivated in water). After 24, 48 and 72h, the effect of vegetable waters on bacteria is compared to control to confirm if the ingredient has:
- A positive effect on the bacteria population (increasing its number)
- No effect on the bacteria population
- A negative effect on the bacteria population (decreasing its number)
Results
The extraction study showed that the addition of enzymes decreases the amount of solid residue (by 55% for zucchini extraction), increases the amount of aqueous extract and improves the quantity of active molecules in the aqueous fraction (increase in dry matter, amount of polyphenols and sugars, from 30 to 50% for zucchini extraction).
DPPH test showed similar activities between vegetable waters and Vitamin C. At a dose of 25%, pear extract inhibits 86% of free radicals, protecting the skin from environmental pollution.
After 24h, at a dose of 20 to 40%, cucumber and zucchini extracts had a positive or no effect on the bacteria populations, showing a prebiotic or microbiome friendly activity for face skin.
Discussion
Fruits and vegetables waters are extracted from food and/or agriculture coproducts, valorizing those raw materials, improving farmers income and decreasing food waste and carbon imprint.
With enzymatic extraction, “binded” water from inside the cells is released with all the natural surrounding nutrients. All hydrophilic molecules are extracted together at the same time, in only one step, saving time and energy and increasing the extraction yield to valorize as much raw material as possible and improve coproduct valorization.
Extraction solid residues are valorized into compost in-house to avoid carbon imprint on transporting and transforming those “wastes”.
Conclusion
In a biorefinery concept, Biolie is valorizing agriculture and food coproducts to produce cosmetic ingredients. Vegetable waters are multifunctional ingredients that can be used from 20 to 80% in formulations to replace water and bring activities. Vegetable waters are organic certified sustainable ingredients in the trend of upcycling and clean beauty