Hair, ageing and quality of life of women from African descent leaving in the UK
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Presented by: Gabriela Daniels
Introduction: From scientific point of view, the amino acid composition of the hair of individuals from different geo racial groups is considered almost identical. However, there is a range of observed and measurable differences in the geometric, mechanical and sensory characteristics of hair representing these groups. The most curly/kinky hair is associated with people from African descend and, historically, scientific studies have referred to such hair as African. African hair has been reported to have more knotting and a higher percentage of naturally broken fibers as well as lower mechanical strength than other types of hair. In addition to this fragility, some styling practices such relaxing and braiding are reported to cause structural damage the hair, dermatosis or hair loss.
Hair ageing has been related to slower growth, changes to hair texture due to reduction in hair shaft diameter and lipid content, and hair greying. The onset of hair greying for individuals from African descent is known to be later (mid 40s) than in Caucasians and Asians (mid to late 30s respectively) whilst reports of measured and perceived changes to growth, density and texture are lacking.
Research shows that there is an association between hair and scalp conditions such as hair loss and psychological well-being. Furthermore, hair is an important aspect of physical attractiveness for humans which also overlaps with race and gender identity. However, there is a gap in knowledge of how age impacts on the hair management practices of women with very curly/kinky hair especially in the context of the fibre properties and styling practices noted already.
Aim: This study explored the age-related changes to hair management and styling techniques and related measures of satisfaction and quality of life (QoL) of women from African and Afro-Caribbean descent of age over 60 living in the UK.
Methods: A mixed method technique was applied, starting with online survey, including a QoL questionnaire (n=46) and followed by in-depth interviews (n=8). Statistical and thematic analysis were applied to the survey and interview data accordingly. This approach provided quantitative and qualitative dimensions to this hitherto under researched topic and group of users of cosmetic products.
Results: 86.9% of the survey participants were between 60 and 69 years old and 76% identified themselves as African, Caribbean or Black British, whilst the rest were of a more complex mixed background, all identified their natural hair as curl type 4-7, with curl type 6 being most common n=16. 78% reported completely natural hair (shorter than 4inch=21 longer than 4inch=15). The perceptions of changes to hair growth, thickness, shedding and overall management before and after the menopause only changed significantly for management. Hair relaxing and texturizing were reported as more common pre menopause, whilst hair colouring was more common after. Satisfaction with current hair length and texture were correlated with feeling positive about the natural and current hair and with perceived attractiveness of natural and current hair style and higher QoL. Satisfaction with natural and current hair colour appeared to correlate with feeling positive about natural hair and the perceived attractiveness of the current colour. The motivation for current hair style was easiness and managing at home. The qualitative data analysis revealed several themes: hair and personal identity (commonly relating texture and curliness to beauty and personal strength); hair and care (curliness, dryness, thickness), and hair and heritage (Afro, independence, pride).
Conclusion: A preference towards natural styles past menopause was demonstrated. The satisfaction with hair and QoL were related to choices of hair styles which are natural, practical and achievable at home.
Contribution: This study explored the effects of biological hair ageing on a growing demographic group of cosmetic users whose needs have not been addressed so far by the mainstream scientific and technological industry trends.
Hair ageing has been related to slower growth, changes to hair texture due to reduction in hair shaft diameter and lipid content, and hair greying. The onset of hair greying for individuals from African descent is known to be later (mid 40s) than in Caucasians and Asians (mid to late 30s respectively) whilst reports of measured and perceived changes to growth, density and texture are lacking.
Research shows that there is an association between hair and scalp conditions such as hair loss and psychological well-being. Furthermore, hair is an important aspect of physical attractiveness for humans which also overlaps with race and gender identity. However, there is a gap in knowledge of how age impacts on the hair management practices of women with very curly/kinky hair especially in the context of the fibre properties and styling practices noted already.
Aim: This study explored the age-related changes to hair management and styling techniques and related measures of satisfaction and quality of life (QoL) of women from African and Afro-Caribbean descent of age over 60 living in the UK.
Methods: A mixed method technique was applied, starting with online survey, including a QoL questionnaire (n=46) and followed by in-depth interviews (n=8). Statistical and thematic analysis were applied to the survey and interview data accordingly. This approach provided quantitative and qualitative dimensions to this hitherto under researched topic and group of users of cosmetic products.
Results: 86.9% of the survey participants were between 60 and 69 years old and 76% identified themselves as African, Caribbean or Black British, whilst the rest were of a more complex mixed background, all identified their natural hair as curl type 4-7, with curl type 6 being most common n=16. 78% reported completely natural hair (shorter than 4inch=21 longer than 4inch=15). The perceptions of changes to hair growth, thickness, shedding and overall management before and after the menopause only changed significantly for management. Hair relaxing and texturizing were reported as more common pre menopause, whilst hair colouring was more common after. Satisfaction with current hair length and texture were correlated with feeling positive about the natural and current hair and with perceived attractiveness of natural and current hair style and higher QoL. Satisfaction with natural and current hair colour appeared to correlate with feeling positive about natural hair and the perceived attractiveness of the current colour. The motivation for current hair style was easiness and managing at home. The qualitative data analysis revealed several themes: hair and personal identity (commonly relating texture and curliness to beauty and personal strength); hair and care (curliness, dryness, thickness), and hair and heritage (Afro, independence, pride).
Conclusion: A preference towards natural styles past menopause was demonstrated. The satisfaction with hair and QoL were related to choices of hair styles which are natural, practical and achievable at home.
Contribution: This study explored the effects of biological hair ageing on a growing demographic group of cosmetic users whose needs have not been addressed so far by the mainstream scientific and technological industry trends.