A Rapid Screening Method to Evaluate Waterproof Degree of Halal Mascara by Contact Angle Measurement and Adhesion Tape Test
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Presented by: Sarah Sihombing
Background:
Mascara has been around for centuries as a principal eye make up product. Waterproof character that comes from film former incorporation in mascara is one of the most important attributes for customer’s preference, as it is designed to resist water, sweat, tears, and to deliver long lasting pigment that stays put throughout the day. However, in accordance with the increasing awareness in muslim population for halal products, this waterproof mascara many times may clashes with ablution (wudu) requirement, since film former usage may have a risk to prevent water from contact with skin. Therefore, the formula will not meet the halal criteria, as it can invalidate the wudu rule, which is mandatory for all muslim before performing daily pray. This study aimed to find rapid screening methods that can assess the waterproof degree of halal mascara product and its film former ingredients in the formulation step.
Methods:
In-vitro test was conducted by spreading a homogenous dried film of film formers and halal mascara samples using film applicator. For the immersion test, this film was immersed in reverse osmosis water for 8 hours and evaluated every 2 hours to inspect the film condition. For the contact angle test, water was dropped on the film and the resulting contact angle was measured using a digital microscope. For the tape test, a grid pattern on the film was pulled rapidly with pressure sensitive tape and rated based on ASTM D3359 adhesion classification.
In-vivo test was performed to represent the condition of wudu. Mascara samples were applied on the eyelashes of 5 female volunteers. After washing their face using tap water 3 times, the condition of the mascara was evaluated. Statistical analysis was conducted to determine the correlation between waterproof degree of film former and halal mascara with contact angle and adhesion level, as well as validating the in-vitro and in-vivo test.
Results:
Significant correlation was found in in-vitro test between waterproof character with contact angle and adhesion parameter. This method will play an important role in differentiating the quality of film former raw material. After the film former samples were incorporated in halal mascara formulation, it showed similar results observed in the film former test, thus proving the method is applicable to evaluate the finished product. Furthermore, the developed water immersion in-vitro test can represent the actual waterproof character of mascara in women that should perform wudu or face-washing, as shown by in-vivo test.
Discussion and Conclusion:
The findings in this study can be a guidance to formulate a waterproof mascara that fulfills the halal aspect of formula, thus accommodates the thriving halal cosmetic market in many muslim majority countries. Further development regarding the water permeability test for waterproof cosmetics is needed to ensure the wudhu friendly demand of muslim consumer all around the world.
Mascara has been around for centuries as a principal eye make up product. Waterproof character that comes from film former incorporation in mascara is one of the most important attributes for customer’s preference, as it is designed to resist water, sweat, tears, and to deliver long lasting pigment that stays put throughout the day. However, in accordance with the increasing awareness in muslim population for halal products, this waterproof mascara many times may clashes with ablution (wudu) requirement, since film former usage may have a risk to prevent water from contact with skin. Therefore, the formula will not meet the halal criteria, as it can invalidate the wudu rule, which is mandatory for all muslim before performing daily pray. This study aimed to find rapid screening methods that can assess the waterproof degree of halal mascara product and its film former ingredients in the formulation step.
Methods:
In-vitro test was conducted by spreading a homogenous dried film of film formers and halal mascara samples using film applicator. For the immersion test, this film was immersed in reverse osmosis water for 8 hours and evaluated every 2 hours to inspect the film condition. For the contact angle test, water was dropped on the film and the resulting contact angle was measured using a digital microscope. For the tape test, a grid pattern on the film was pulled rapidly with pressure sensitive tape and rated based on ASTM D3359 adhesion classification.
In-vivo test was performed to represent the condition of wudu. Mascara samples were applied on the eyelashes of 5 female volunteers. After washing their face using tap water 3 times, the condition of the mascara was evaluated. Statistical analysis was conducted to determine the correlation between waterproof degree of film former and halal mascara with contact angle and adhesion level, as well as validating the in-vitro and in-vivo test.
Results:
Significant correlation was found in in-vitro test between waterproof character with contact angle and adhesion parameter. This method will play an important role in differentiating the quality of film former raw material. After the film former samples were incorporated in halal mascara formulation, it showed similar results observed in the film former test, thus proving the method is applicable to evaluate the finished product. Furthermore, the developed water immersion in-vitro test can represent the actual waterproof character of mascara in women that should perform wudu or face-washing, as shown by in-vivo test.
Discussion and Conclusion:
The findings in this study can be a guidance to formulate a waterproof mascara that fulfills the halal aspect of formula, thus accommodates the thriving halal cosmetic market in many muslim majority countries. Further development regarding the water permeability test for waterproof cosmetics is needed to ensure the wudhu friendly demand of muslim consumer all around the world.